Fretting over that one pimple I get once in a month (thank my stars), I often wonder how my partner is unbothered about his skin or that pimple spot he couldn’t get rid of for a decade? While he could be an exception, due credits to the changing representation in media, acne is not seen as a teenage or women skin issue anymore. Taking some of the recent anti-acne product TVCs as reference, it is, at least, established that men, regardless of their age, may have to deal with pesky breakouts. However, there's still a long way to go.

Grooming is often presumed as a woman domain and while we talk about changing narrative in media, most of the marketing of anti-acne products are focused on women, unless it comes from a brand or range specifically designed for men. Does that mean lesser men deal with skin issues, specifically acne, as compared to women? "In my practice, I see fewer men than women seeking treatment for adult acne. But statistically speaking, more women get acne than men in their adult years so that makes sense,” Dr Kiran Sethi, author of Skin Sense and founder of Isya Aesthetics. On the other hand, according to experts, there has been a positive change in the number of men seeking acne treatment. “Fortunately, times have changed, and a positive awareness is now present that men require skincare and need to get acne treated. Currently I see about 3-4 out of 10 acne patients are males who come for treatment,” adds Dr Madhuri Agarwal, Celebrity Dermatologist and Founder, Yavana Aesthetics Clinic. She further explains that at times their lifestyle and work profile make it difficult to use multiple products. Well, this explains my partner’s disinterest in knowing the causes behind his skin issues and following a proper routine for it. 

Are the causes of acne and dealing with it different for men and women? “Usually, the causes for acne are the same in both sexes, but there can be some differences in contributing factors,” says Dr Agarwal. What are these contributing factors? In males, the level of testosterone hormone can increase the oil production leading to acne. Also, they tend to use harsh scrubbing products that strip the skin off its natural oil and damage the skin barrier. All these factors impact skin health and can lead to breakouts. “Men often have specific triggers such as gym routines, supplements, protein powders, or other factors like dandruff, using the wrong skincare products, or incorrect shaving techniques,” adds Dr Sethi. She further explains that men may be more prone to Pseudofolliculitis barbae (razor bumps or ingrown hairs) which can look like acne but has different causes. Additionally, shaving routine, ingrown hair, and improper beard hygiene can lead to breakouts. Following an improper skincare routine, for example skipping sunscreen and using inappropriate products, can further aggravate the issue, according to experts. 

Acne Treatment and Skincare Routine for Men 

Through my experience with skincare and products, a lesson that I have learned is that skincare is subjective and gender neutral. While men may require more potent formulation for their skin is thicker than women, largely they benefit from same ingredients and products. “This is because men’s skin is 20 per cent thicker, 70 per cent oilier, 40 per cent sweatier than women’s skin, according to a study,” adds Dr Agarwal. Also, stress level and fluctuation in hormones in every individual also impact the condition differently. In fact, experts also say that men’s skin can handle stronger concentrations of ingredients as compared to women. “Products and treatments for men may be stronger and more drying. This can include the use of benzoyl peroxide washes, topical retinoids, and in some cases, dietary changes or stopping certain supplements,” explains Dr Sethi. 

When it comes to following a skincare routine to combat acne in men, the first step is understanding the skin type. While one may have acne-prone skin, there’s a possibility that the skin is also dry, oily, or sensitive, and therefore, the routine must be designed keeping all factors in mind. For example, someone with sensitive and acne-prone skin needs to be careful with the use of actives that can cause further inflammation. Most importantly, get rid of those 3-in-1 cleansers that are marketed as an all-in-product for the body. While they may be fine for the body and weekly pedicure, they must not come near the face. Using a gentle cleanser and non-comedogenic moisturiser are two basic requirements. “A Cleansing face wash (no soap bar) twice a day. Avoid frequent washing of the face. Use a chemical exfoliator containing salicylic acid or glycolic acid once a week. Next apply a moisturiser gel based twice a day or at least once at bedtime. Lastly, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 and PA+++ daily, once every morning even indoors,” explains Dr Agarwal.  

As far as the ingredients are concerned, salicylic and benzoyl peroxide, ceramides and niacinamide, retinol and peptides work for men’s skincare too except that they need higher percentages of actives for them to perform better on thicker, oilier skin. “Men can use these products throughout the year, they do not need to do frequent changes unless the skin shows irritation or a skin concern. It’s essential they follow a basic three-to-four-step routine daily to get maximum benefit for acne-prone skin,” says Dr Agarwal. If you are a skincare enthusiast and enjoy extra TLC, keep blotting paper handy to get rid of extra oil on the face and use a clay mask weekly to control the sebum production. Lastly, keep your dermatologist on speed dial; a monthly consultation and prescribed in-salon treatments like chemical peels, dermalinfusions, medi-facials for extractions, radiofrequency and plasmage treatment can help prevent future breakouts. 

Other Considerations  

When it comes to using products and ranges that are specifically marketed and designed to men, be aware and make the right decision. Skincare, for generations, has been tagged as a women’s domain and therefore, brands package and market their products keeping women in mind as their target audience. While using the same products have no limitations for men, men-specific ranges might make it a more comfortable experience for men to get used to and follow a routine. Does that mean that men’s product ranges are usually an eyewash? The answer is yes and no. "It’s a yes when brands use the right ingredients and percentages meant for a man’s skin. However, it is a no if it’s done for the purpose of gender stereotyping as a marketing strategy and selling the same ingredients without trying to customise the product to men’s needs,” concludes Dr Agarwal. With that, be aware that adult acne in men could also be a sign of an underlying health issue. Make sure your regular health check-up appointment is already on your calendar.