India Bike Week: Stories From The Saddle
India Bike Week: Stories From The Saddle

From navigating the heart of the Amazon to the rugged paths of Georgia and the frigid embrace of Siberia, riders from across the world share their daunting tales.

On December 8, when a swarm of motorcycles descend on the shores of Vagator, Goa, the scenes will be quite reminiscent of Hunter S. Thompson’s “Hell’s Angels.” However, unlike Hollister, this chaos is rather the familiar, orchestrated festival, better known as India Bike Week. Now in its 10th edition, it had sparked from a conversation between Martin da Costa and Anoop Prakash over America’s iconic Sturges Motorbike Festival.

 

Over a decade later, the festival draws roughly 40,000 bikers. What sets IBW apart is that it isn’t just about launches, showcases, and concerts—it’s an extended breakfast ride, fostering story exchanges among bikers. It has evolved into a sincere celebration of the spirit of motorcycling, not being restricted by a creed or brand of motorcycles. We caught up with riders from IBW’s Big Trip initiative to uncover their two-wheeled adventures that capture this spirit.

 

 

Simon and Lisa Thomas: A husband-and-wife duo, starting in 2003 have spent the past two decades exploring the world on two motorbikes.

 

What motivated you to pursue a life of adventure on motorbikes?

 

S&L: Our journey sparked from an initial plan of a 16-month escape. Following a severe motorcycle accident that almost took off my right lower leg (ankle and foot), I endured nearly two years, confined to a bed, unable to walk or work. Defying medical odds, I not only got back on my feet but also established a new business. However, the mental toll was undeniable, which prompted Lisa and me to prioritize our relationship.

 

We hatched a crazy and ambitious plan: traverse all seven continents, visit 122 countries, and journey from the northernmost to the southernmost points on each landmass. Confronting challenges and embracing the diverse landscapes, we transformed – our fundamental values shifted, and our perspective on life underwent a profound change, influencing our understanding of ourselves and what we truly seek from life. What began as a simple journey morphed into a way of life, a transformation that fills us with humility and gratitude.

 

What were some of the logistical challenges you faced?

 

S&L: Lisa, grappling with four serious heart conditions, adheres to a daily medication regimen crucial for her survival. Every year, we’ve struggled with the daunting task of sourcing and affording the medication she requires to sustain her life. Sometimes, with tenacity and strategic thinking, we’ve been able to unravel these complications to find solutions. Other times, we’ve had to throw a ‘hell-Mary,’ venturing down a route with imperfect answers.

 

In the heart of the Amazon Jungle, we faced a crisis when my BMW R1150GS suffered a cracked subframe. Armed with nothing but webbing straps and cable ties, we improvised a repair. Further into the jungle, our brake pads succumbed to the mud and high mineral content, a problem remedied only by stumbling upon a crashed aeroplane. By a stroke of luck, we salvaged the landing gear and, with some ingenuity, chiselled off brake pads. A daring plan involving epoxy (liquid metal) and makeshift brake pads emerged, far from ideal but effective. Eventually, we secured proper replacements in a village about a week later.

 

 

One place you’d like to revisit and another that you prefer to avoid?

 

S&L: The allure of returning to the Gobi Desert in Mongolia is undeniable. For us both deserts possess a unique ability to humble us, serving as stark reminders of our own transience. Mongolia, as a nation, unfolded before us as an extraordinary tapestry of exploration. Its remoteness, rugged terrain, and breathtaking beauty provided the ideal backdrop for some of the most demanding rides we’ve ever undertaken. The trials were intense, but the dividends of effort were immeasurable.

 

As for places we’d rather not revisit? Remarkably, none come to mind. Each destination, with its unique challenges and charms, has woven itself into our two-decade-long odyssey.

 

Describe the most challenging trail you’ve encountered and how you overcame it.

 

S&L: One of the most formidable stages was undoubtedly the north-to-south traverse through the heart of the Amazon Jungle.

 

On the second day, a harrowing plunge from a decaying bridge left me with a broken neck, setting the stage for what was to become a struggle for survival. It took a gruelling three weeks to reach the nearest hospital for life-saving surgery. The aftermath of the fall was daunting—paralyzed on my left-hand side and robbed of sight in my left eye. Simultaneously, Lisa was battling the relentless symptoms of malaria.

 

Using cable ties, I secured my left hand to the handlebars, while Lisa towed me with a 6-foot webbing strap through mud troughs that engulfed the engine. As we neared the southern fringe of the jungle, the toll on our bodies became gruesomely apparent. Insect larvae hatched from our skin, and trench foot, a condition where the skin and muscle on our feet rotted and died making each day gruesome. We rode like this through the jungle for almost two weeks without respite.

 

Before reaching the sanctuary of the hospital, a critical repair was needed by my bike. After the fall, the wiring loom had shorted and melted along its entire length. Armed with 100 pieces of duct tape and a Leatherman multi-tool, Lisa and I undertook a makeshift fix in the heart of the jungle.

 

 

Share an instance where your initial travel plans had to be adapted or changed due to unforeseen circumstances, and how you navigated that situation.

 

S&L: A recent journey led us back to Central America. We had spent weeks exploring Cuba before embarking on a seafaring adventure to Panama. Our mission: ride north through Central America, ultimately reaching the USA.

 

However, our plans encountered a major obstacle in the form of Nicaragua, a country gripped by civil strikes and urban unrest. At the border, we were prepared to press on. Fate, however, had other plans, as Nicaraguan officials adamantly denied us passage at the border.

 

Undaunted by this setback, we found ourselves in Costa Rica, determined to find a way through. Enter a solution: a company capable of airlifting us and our bikes over the restricted Nicaraguan terrain. The only hiccup? We were strapped for cash to fund the flight.

 

In the face of adversity, one lesson stood out—never underestimate the power of begging. And when that falls short, hone your negotiation skills. In our case, a resourceful approach emerged. We proposed featuring our generous benefactors on our website’s ‘sponsor page’ and committed to generating social media content to showcase their brand. In the realm of adventure travel, the ability to barter is indispensable, and a refusal to accept ‘no’ as the final answer is paramount.

 

 

Share a memorable experience or encounter that profoundly impacted your perspective on life during your travels.

 

S&L: While there have undeniably been pivotal moments that left an indelible mark, attempting to isolate just one feels like an injustice to the rest of our journey.

 

Although, one vivid memory takes us back to Mali, Africa, a locale that tested our mettle in more ways than one. Battling illness and severe dehydration, we had just survived two grueling days of riding. Our path led us to a swiftly flowing river with no apparent crossing point – no bridges, no visible means except for a seemingly fragile dugout canoe, precariously afloat. The prospect of retracing our arduous route was unthinkable.

 

Loading our bikes onto the fragile vessel, we inched our way across the river, acutely aware that a single misstep could plunge our dreams, ambitions, and the sacrifices made to reach this juncture into the water.

 

This singular experience served as an unyielding lesson for Lisa and me, revealing what can actually be achieved when trusting in oneself and seizing opportunities.

 

Even when part of your brain yells stop, confronting the most formidable challenges becomes not just feasible but transformative. Here’s another of our favourite quotes by Bethany Hamilton. This resonates deeply with us: “Courage doesn’t mean you don’t get afraid. Courage means you don’t let fear stop you.”

 

What advice would you offer to aspiring adventurers looking to embark on similar long-term motorcycle journeys?

 

S&L: Choose a departure date and commit to it wholeheartedly. I guarantee that the sense of readiness and preparation we all hope for before setting out will not be there, but that’s precisely the essence of embarking on a grand adventure.

 

No one standing on the brink of a new journey ever feels truly ready – it’s an integral part of the adventure itself. Remember, it’s wiser to regret the actions you took than to lament opportunities left unexplored.

 

 

Juvena Huang: Also known as “The Wandering Wasp,” rode 44,000 km across 25 countries in 27 months.

 

What inspired you to undertake your 44,000 km journey across 25 countries?

 

JH: The sudden and tragic loss of a close friend, who had been eagerly planning a riding adventure to China’s border, deeply impacted me. His unexpected passing served as a stark reminder of life’s fleeting nature and inherent uncertainties. Since the age of eighteen, I have harboured a strong desire to travel. Witnessing the fragility of life following my friend’s untimely accident at 29 compelled me to take decisive action. I resolved not to delay any longer in pursuing my long-held dream of exploring the world. This awakening inspired me to step beyond the confines of societal expectations and fulfil my travel aspirations without further hesitation.

 

Describe the most challenging trail you’ve encountered and how you overcame it?

 

JH: The route leading to Tusheti National Park in Georgia. This path is characterized by its winding, unpaved nature, steep inclines, and a lack of protective railings along precipitous drop-offs. The presence of graves, memorial plates, and etched names commemorating those who perished on this route serves as a grim reminder of how treacherous the road is. Initially, I attempted to navigate this road while fully loaded with my luggage. However, after experiencing my first fall, I decided to lighten my load by transferring some items onto a friend’s truck. At least, it would make it easier to pick up the scooter whenever I drop the scooter.

 

 

Share an instance where your initial travel plans had to be adapted or changed due to unforeseen circumstances?

 

JH: The scooter encountered mechanical issues during my travels in Iran, coinciding with the looming expiration of both my visa and Carnet de Passage (vehicle passport). Adding to the situation, I lost cash in the sanctioned country where access to foreign funds is restricted, leaving me in a precarious situation. In a race against time, I had to coordinate with authorities both in Iran and my home country to secure document extensions. The local biking community emerged as my lifeline during this challenging period. Their unwavering support ranged from accompanying me to official offices for negotiations, repairing my scooter, generously hosting me in their homes, giving me food, and even offering financial aid to ensure my safe passage out of the country. Their kindness and assistance were instrumental—I barely had enough resources to depart Iran, and their aid was invaluable.

 

 

Karolis Mieliauskas: A renowned rider, and adventurer. His recent adventure was “The world’s coldest bike ride”: at -75 degrees Celsius, where trucks have fallen off a cliff, with heat waves. Starting from Siberia drove to Oymyakon, the coldest habitable place on Earth, his journey started at -38°C degrees.

 

What logistical challenges did you face when embarking on your journey?

 

KM: It was transporting my motorcycle from Lithuania to Irkutsk, northeast Siberia. With a distance of 11,000 kilometres, truck delivery took too long, risking New Year’s freeze. Opting for air freight, the bike had to be partially reassembled, and facing -50 degrees upon arrival meant meticulous preparation to prevent freezing during the journey.

 

 

Describe the most challenging trail you’ve encountered and how you overcame it?

 

KM: The most challenging trail was on the Road of Bones during the Coldest Ride. The icy conditions, combined with the extreme cold, posed difficulties. The bearings in my steering wheel froze, limiting control. Overcoming it involved perseverance, continuous forward motion, and maintaining focus despite the freezing temperatures.

 

Share a pivotal moment or challenge faced during your expedition.

 

KM: A pivotal moment during the Coldest Ride was facing the unexpected summer-type sleeping bags for a night in -48 degrees. Overcoming this involved accepting the situation, enduring the freezing night fully dressed, and maintaining a positive outlook.

 

Featured Image – 2ridetheworld

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