After a blitzkrieg of releases that saw Rolex drop its first new sport model in over a decade and half the fair turn into a Formula 1 shrine, the watch world is finally catching its breath—and doubling down. From glitzy high complications to razor-thin records and motorsport mashups, the message is clear: this year, brands are playing hard.

You’ve got TAG tapping into vintage Formula 1 fever, IWC name-dropping Brad Pitt’s fictional race team, and Grand Seiko casually launching one of the most accurate mechanical watches ever made, while VC stuns with ever-more complications stuffed into a single watch. Even the indies are swinging for the fences. Whether it’s technical showboating or design nostalgia, everyone’s got something to prove in 2025.

So, if your feed is already flooded and you need a curated breather, here’s our tightly filtered edit of the 10 most exciting watches at the fair right now:

1. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Just when you thought Bulgari had run out of microns to shave, the master of micro-watchmaking returns with its 10th world record: the world’s thinnest tourbillon. At just 1.85 mm thick, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a technical tour de force, made possible by extreme skeletonisation and integrating the movement into the case itself. That wafer-thin profile pushes tolerances to the brink—remove a sliver too much, and the entire mechanism collapses. It’s a staggering feat of engineering that makes Bulgari’s previous records (1.7 mm and 1.8 mm) look almost chunky by comparison. You really have to see it to believe it—stay tuned for our in-depth article on this barely-there masterpiece.

€750,000 (₹6.75 crore)

2. Rolex Land-Dweller

Rolex breaks new ground—literally—with the Land-Dweller, its first new sport model in over a decade. Drawing inspiration from the ’70s Oysterquartz, this timepiece features a 40mm angular case seamlessly integrated with a reimagined ultra-slim Jubilee bracelet, exuding both nostalgia and modernity.

At its heart lies the Calibre 7135, Rolex’s inaugural high-frequency movement operating at 5Hz, enhancing precision. The innovative “Dynapulse” escapement, boasting seven patents, offers a 30% boost in energy efficiency over traditional mechanisms. This technical prowess is complemented by a striking honeycomb-patterned dial, marrying form with function. 

13,300 to 111,500 CHF (₹12.5 lakh to ₹1.05 crore)

3. Tudor Black Bay Pro Opaline Dial

Tudor finally delivers the “Polar” moment fans have been waiting for. The Black Bay Pro, long viewed as the Explorer II’s cooler cousin, now gets an opaline white dial that transforms its personality. Still sized at that sweet-spot 39mm, with a fixed steel 24-hour bezel and COSC-certified GMT movement, it’s a rugged tool watch refined for daily wear. The crisp white dial boosts legibility, while the yellow GMT hand and black-outlined markers pop with purpose. It’s not just a design update—it’s the finishing touch on a modern adventurer’s essential.

$4,375 (₹3.65 lakh)                                           

4. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

In 1994, Jaeger-LeCoultre made horological history by introducing the first Reverso Minute Repeater, masterfully miniaturizing this complex mechanism. Now, in 2025, the Maison elevates this legacy with the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, showcasing the newly developed in-house Calibre 953.  

The front dial captivates with a radiant teal-blue grand feu enamel, meticulously layered over a hand-guilloché barleycorn pattern—a process demanding over 12 hours of dedicated craftsmanship.  Flipping the iconic case reveals the open-worked reverse side, offering an intimate view of the minute repeater’s intricate mechanism, embodying a harmonious blend of mechanical mastery and artistic expression. Limited to just 30 pieces.

$299,000 (₹2.5 crore)

5. Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 / SLGB003

Bulgari isn’t the only one out here smashing records—Grand Seiko just launched the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch ever. The new Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2 introduces Ultra Fine Accuracy (U.F.A.), boasting an annual deviation of just ±20 seconds. That’s not per day, week, or month—per year.

This tech marvel debuts in two Evolution 9 models: the SLGB001 in Platinum 950 and the SLGB003 in High-Intensity Titanium. Both carry shimmering dials inspired by Shinshu’s frost-covered forests, complete with the smooth glide of Spring Drive’s seconds hand. At 37mm, the case is compact, finished with Zaratsu polishing, and offers supreme comfort thanks to a low centre of gravity and refined bracelet ergonomics. With a 72-hour power reserve, 34 jewels, and dial text that reads “SPRING DRIVE U.F.A.” like a mic-drop moment, this is Grand Seiko’s answer to the future of mechanical precision. And it’s not just good—it’s icy cool.

SLGB001 (Platinum): $39,000 (₹32.5 lakh) | SLGB003 (Titanium): $10,900 (₹9.1 lakh)

6. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication - La Première

Let’s not mince words—Vacheron Constantin has just made the most complicated wristwatch ever created. The Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication isn’t just flexing; it’s rewriting the rules of haute horlogerie with a staggering 41 complications and 1,521 components, all packed into a remarkably wearable 45mm case.

Helmed by Jean-Marie Bouquin (yes, the same genius behind the Celestia), the watch is both an engineering marvel and a poetic ode to the cosmos. There’s a Westminster carillon minute repeater with four gongs. A sidereal time indicator. A celestial map that lets you track the hour a star will appear above your location. A plug-and-play movement architecture with multiple patents for serviceability. And that’s just the tip of the astronomical iceberg. While it may be dubbed La Première, this is no museum piece. It’s for sale—and will likely vanish into a vault or private collection. Think of it as the Sistine Chapel of wristwatches. A once-in-a-generation masterwork that proves: in 2025, nobody out-complicates Vacheron.

Price on request (Expected ₹8 crore+)

7. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 ‘Sonny Hayes’ Edition

A movie prop turned collector’s grail, the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 with a green dial is IWC’s tribute to F1® The Movie—and to Brad Pitt’s character, Sonny Hayes. Worn by Pitt on screen and even featuring personal design inputs from the actor, the watch draws from the Ingenieur SL Ref. 1832 and is reimagined here with a rich green “Grid” dial—the character’s signature  colour—gold-plated hands, and a robust stainless-steel case. Yes, the gold-black-white Apex GP watches are nice, and so is the blacked-out Ingenieur Automatic, but this one has subtler storytelling involved, and I really, really dig that.

Limited to 1,000 pieces, this edition balances retro motorsport vibes with modern engineering. Inside beats the IWC-manufactured Calibre 32111 with a solid 120-hour power reserve, while a soft-iron inner case protects against magnetic fields. The integrated bracelet with butterfly clasp adds comfort, and the whole thing is waterproof to 10 bar.

CHF 13,200 (₹12.5 lakh)

8. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen ‘Mount Vinson’

For those who thought last year’s 0 Oxygen CARBO2 was peak Montblanc—think again. The brand returns with a frosty evolution: the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson, a limited edition created in collaboration with mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner. This piece commemorates his final climb in the Seven Summits Challenge, with the luminescent outline of Mount Vinson engraved into the case flank.

The 43.5mm titanium case features a composite mid-case of basalt and quartz fibres, bound in icy blue resin inspired by Antarctic glaciers. Montblanc’s “Zero Oxygen” tech ensures no fogging, no oxidisation, and better long-term performance for the automatic MB 29.25 calibre. With 100m water resistance and limited to 986 pieces, this is one cold watch with serious altitude.

$9,400 (₹7.8 lakh)

9. Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

While others flex with million-dollar grand complications, Frederique Constant doubles down on accessible excellence. The updated Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is Swiss watchmaking with democratic intent—now clad in a vintage-inspired 40mm steel case, refreshed with slimmer lugs and a sun-brushed salmon dial that oozes old-world charm.

Under the hood is the new in-house FC-776 calibre, boasting a 3-day power reserve and moonphase complication—visible through an open caseback. The perpetual calendar layout remains tidy and legible, with recessed subdials and sharp Dauphine hands adding just enough flourish. It’s one of the few mechanical perpetuals that won’t break the bank—or the vibe. A quiet win for collectors who value brains, beauty, and balance.

$9,895 (₹8.2 lakh)

10. Cartier Tank à Guichets (2025 Platinum Edition)

Cartier’s iconic Tank gets a quietly radical twist in the revived Tank à Guichets, a digital-before-digital design first seen in 1928. For 2025, the maison brings it back in platinum with a slanted layout: the jumping hours sit at 10 o’clock, while the dragging minutes appear at 4—adding a wink of asymmetry to this stoic classic, which is also available in three non-platinum, non-slanted variants.

Powered by a manual-wind movement and stripped of traditional hands, this edition leans into minimalism with mechanical cleverness. Only 200 pieces will be made, which means you’ll likely spot one in a museum—or on the wrist of someone who speaks softly but wears Cartier.

Price TBD (expected ~₹20–25 lakh, limited to 200 pieces)