Now that the dust has settled on Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025, it’s finally time for watch nerds to breathe. Beneath the noise and novelty, this year offered a slew of quieter gems: releases that didn’t shout for attention but earned it anyway. From playful collabs and accessible icons to heavyweight statements from the old guard, here are the under-the-radar watches that deserve a second look:

Chanel J12 Diamond Tourbillon Bleu

Chanel’s J12 Bleu collection celebrates 25 years of ceramic watchmaking with an astonishingly deep, matte Bleu ceramic. It’s a sapphire-studded, high-concept take on the brand’s signature design language—but more than just bling. This version features an in-house tourbillon movement, a sapphire-set bezel, and the kind of maritime drama that makes you do a double take.

Yes, blue has been done—Hublot, Zenith and a dozen others have gone down this route—but Chanel’s execution feels more deliberate, more couture. The hue? Possibly the most gorgeous shade of blue I’ve seen on a watch this year, and one that manages to be rich without overwhelming. It’s flair without fuss, and that’s saying something.

• Price: On Request

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

Nomos quietly dropped a world-timer for the minimalists. Housed in a 40.5mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance, this Club Sport is the brand’s most user-friendly travel watch yet. There’s a pusher at 2 o’clock for changing time zones, a rotating disc showing airport codes, and a 24-hour home time subdial with a day-night indicator—practical without trying too hard, and designed with an intense degree of purposefulness. We also get—ofcourse—multiple colourways, with two sober renditions in silver and blue, plus six (pictured) 175-piece limited-edition dials based on everything from Shanghai skylines and volcanic eruptions to sand dunes and rocky canyons.

It’s powered by the new DUW 3202 calibre, based on the Neomatik architecture, complete with a stop-seconds function and in-house Swing system. For travellers who’d rather wear their taste on a sleeve, this one slips under the radar and onto your shortlist with ease.

• Price: $4,720 (₹3.9 lakh)

Grand Seiko SBGW323 “Kiri”

Spring has arrived on the wrist with Grand Seiko’s SBGW323, a limited edition that celebrates the Paulownia flower—or kiri. It’s subtle, poetic and powered by the manually wound calibre 9S64, all wrapped up in a compact 36.5mm case. What seals the deal is that dial: a Mt. Iwate pattern in soft lilac-purple that’s easy to love and hard to forget.

This is Grand Seiko doing what it does best—precise casework, Zaratzu polishing, and a dial that references nature without becoming twee. It’s also refreshingly sized and avoids any delusions of sportiness, which is increasingly rare in the GS lineup.

• Price: $5,600 (₹4.6 lakh)

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 (Terracotta)

Oris retools its Big Crown Pointer Date with modern proportions and its robust Calibre 403. Now at 40mm with a smoother bezel, the watch ditches retro flourishes for a sharper silhouette—think Bauhaus on a spring hike. The real standout? A terracotta dial that adds warmth and freshness without feeling gimmicky—accompanied by more bright and beautiful colourways.

With a five-day power reserve, anti-magnetic properties and a 10-year warranty, this is a technically sound daily driver that doesn’t bore you after a week. It’s a quiet flex for someone who wants their watch to feel both earthy and evolved.

• Price: $4,100–$4,300 (₹3.4–3.6 lakh)

Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto 'Horizon'

The independent darling goes sky blue with the Horizon—a permanently catalogued take on its micro-rotor-powered Classic Auto. Following the quick sell-out of the recent ‘Sandstone’ edition, this version swaps warmer tones for a lacquered dial that shifts with the light, evoking the soft glow of dawn or the haze before a summer storm. It’s subtle, yes—but the finishing leaves no doubt: this isn’t just another pretty face.

The LF270.01 movement inside is all about grace—bevels, hand-finishing, and that sublime winding rotor. It’s not screaming for attention, but anyone who notices it will instantly get what it’s about: elegance that whispers.

• Price: CHF 45,000 (₹42 lakh)

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif

A stealthy follow-up to last year’s Only Watch pièce unique, the Chronomètre Furtif pairs a tungsten carbide and tantalum case with a mirror-polished Grand Feu enamel dial in smoky anthracite. The numerals practically vanish unless light hits them just right, and that’s the point—this watch hides its brilliance unless you’re really looking.

It features F.P. Journe’s first-ever central seconds movement, and the moonphase and power reserve indicators are hidden on the caseback. It’s the kind of watch that rewards quiet obsession—a horological secret kept between you and the dial.

• Price: CHF 85,000 (₹79 lakh)

Sartory Billard x Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer

This 10-piece collab is a wildcard—equal parts artistic statement and horological delicacy. Designed by the cheeky Brits at Studio Underd0g and made by Sartory Billard with a Voutilainen-produced case, it wears its floral theme proudly. The lugs are individually finished, and the entire watch feels like a love letter to spring.

At 38.5mm and just 8.5mm thick, the SB05 wears like a whisper and looks like a sunflower caught mid-bloom. It’s highly limited, painstakingly assembled, and just the kind of fun serious watchmaking often forgets to have.

• Price: €12,700 (₹11.4 lakh)