The hype around Tudor has never been louder. Last year’s W&W releases—like the Black Bay 58 GMT and FXD in LHD—set off a momentum the brand has clearly decided to ride all the way through 2025. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, that momentum culminated in a bolder-than-ever lineup, and a hands-on experience that blurred the lines between technical rigour and theatrical flair. A promo video featuring the Tudor Manufacture facility in Le Locle set the tone: young, attractive “watchmakers” leaned over their benches, fine-tuning calibres and swiping lint off their colleagues with unblinking focus. We joked later: “Does everyone at Tudor HQ model part-time?” (They don’t. They were actors. Mostly.)
What the promo lacked in realism, it made up for in spirit many times over. “We’ve just reworked the materials and added METAS certification on top of a new movement,” said Jordan Hemsh, Tudor’s head of training, while walking us through the latest lineup. “The idea is to keep pushing.” And that ethos shows.
The One to Want: Opaline Dial Black Bay Pro
Let’s get my hot take out of the way—I think this is the best GADA (go anywhere, do anything) release of Watches and Wonders this year. Still 39mm and equipped with a built-in GMT function, the new Black Bay Pro now sports a crisp opaline dial with ceramic markers outlined in black, making the yellow GMT hand pop with just the right amount of contrast. While I only got to try the three-link bracelet, the fabric strap—pictured above—seems like a great choice, with a superb blend of understated class and wearability.
Hemsh, who was wearing his personal blue Black Bay 58, even offered a side-by-side of the black and white dials. And that’s when it clicked: the new version just works. The contrast makes it far more legible in bright light and lends a contemporary edge to an otherwise rugged retro tool watch. It’s tasteful, tough, and somehow still under-the-radar. If you’ve been looking for a single-watch collection, this could be it.
Interestingly, this opaline refresh brings the Pro into direct conversation with the Rolex Explorer II polar dial (ref. 226570)—a comparison Tudor might be quietly encouraging. Both are robust steel GMTs with high-contrast dials and serious tool-watch heritage. But while the Rolex sits at 42mm with a more polished, adventure-luxe finish, the Tudor keeps things compact and utilitarian at 39mm. Crucially, the Pro is easier to acquire, and costs less than half the price—without feeling like half the watch. With METAS certification and genuinely improved legibility, it’s no longer just the affordable alternative. It’s a compelling standalone proposition.
Quickfire Highlights
Black Bay 58 Burgundy
A returning favourite with a twist—now featuring METAS certification, a burgundy dial and bezel, and the new 5-link bracelet with T-Fit clasp. It retains the 39mm case that made it a darling of enthusiasts, but now brings even more refinement to the table.
Black Bay 68
Tudor bucks the downsizing trend with this new 43mm Master Chronometer model. Available in a silver or “Tudor Blue” dial, it’s a nod to the 1968 Snowflake era, with modern proportions and a no-nonsense tool-watch vibe. Nice touch with the lollipop-style seconds hand—a good all-rounder for those looking for a Tudor for larger wrists.
Black Bay Chrono
Now available on a dressier 5-link bracelet, this long-standing member of the collection gets some minor tweaks but keeps its core intact—COSC-certified MT5813 movement, 41mm case, and your choice of panda or reverse panda dials.
Pelagos Ultra
An absolute tank. This 1,000m water-resistant, titanium-clad beast is engineered for saturation diving and features both green and blue lume for ultra-deep visibility. It also boasts a proprietary self-adjusting clasp system (complete with a really cool lume indicator) and comes METAS-certified. It’s a pure flex—nobody needs it, which is exactly why it exists.
Off the Wrist and Onto the Track
Critically, I think Tudor will forever be doomed to be stuck in the same conversation as Rolex, but the last two years of launches—especially the wildly popular pink and flamingo blue chronos—have allowed Tudor to carve a space of its own that stands very distinctly apart from its bigger brother.
Later in the day, I crossed paths with several global Tudor folks at their global after-dinner team event—where F1 took centre stage yet again, complete with Koreans and Indians battling for the dance floor between Gangnam Style and Punjabi hip hop. Simulators, a mockup F1 car with a type-changing game, and Batak reaction-time leaderboards rounded out the chaos. (I happened to set the 2nd best lap of Monza and the 4th best Batak record of the night. Thanks, India.)
It’s all a testament to a serious commitment—within and outside of the company—to push for a strong rebrand. With the Miami GP now on the horizon, I can’t wait for the next launch to drop. I’ve made plenty of winks and suggestions about a new blue ceramic chrono in the works. So far? Just some wry smiles and non-answers. But the Tudor hype is real, and it’s not going anywhere. YouTube agrees—the views are climbing on the Pelagos Ultra and Burgundy BB quickly, and the launches show no signs of slowing down.
