The Underdogs of Horology: 6 Affordable Watches That Punch Above Their Weight
The Underdogs of Horology: 6 Affordable Watches That Punch Above Their Weight

Let’s be real––with dozens of top-shelf watches releasing every single week of the year, it can be hard to discover some of the hidden gems that tick all the right boxes, especially when they tend to spend more on manufacturing than marketing

When I first set out to write about watches, my personal collection was...well, nothing home to write about. Gathering dust in the back of a bedroom shelf was an old hand-me-down Seiko 5, a couple of unwanted gifts and the one watch that still fuels my passion for dress watches today––the Skagen Signatur SKW6430. Clean lines and a slick form factor, but it definetly wasn’t going to draw many eyeballs from seasoned watch pros and critics. 

 

In the time since, I developed the need to own something a little more special––the kind of piece that straddled the line between being a conversation-starter as well as a really good value proposition. Thankfully, countless hours spent in watch forums and press junkets have resulted in what I’d refer to as an eye for a watch that doesn’t scream exclusivity, yet draws in a steady stream of compliments, questions, and a certain smugness that you’d never find while wearing the Speedys, Daytonas, and Calatravas we all know and love (and love to hate). Here’s my current top choices for anyone looking for subtle, yet sophisticated style, on a generous-yet-tempered budget: 

 

Under ₹30,000 

 

Orient Bambino 38 Small Seconds 

 

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Price: ₹23,400 

 

While I’ve been a Seiko loyalist for most of my life, Orient cleanly swept its fellow Japanese brand off its perch when I recently purchased the Bambino V2 this year, which has quickly become my go-to watch for a proper day out on the job, or a night out in something decidedly vintage and wild. This fresh 2024 variant plays with the formula with new colourways, an open caseback, a slightly reduced form factor and the introduction of an elegant small-seconds register with an adorable set of miniature, railway-style second markers as the perfect finishing touch. 

 

Timex Marlin TW2V62100U9 

 

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Price: ₹22,495 

 

Timex really takes the cake for its blend of accessible designs and reliability, and the Marlin Sub-Dial Automatic 39mm immediately won me over as a modern-retro masterpiece. Featuring a curved tonneau case, this watch effortlessly marries the spirit of the 1960s with contemporary flair. The pops of electric red on the sub-dial hand brings a fresh vibrancy to the design, making it a perfect choice for both casual outings and more refined occasions. With a reliable Miyota automatic movement on display through its exhibition caseback, this watch is more than just a pretty face—it’s a testament to Timex’s evolving craftsmanship while retaining the charm of its iconic Marlin name. 

 

Under ₹60,000 

 

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time "Old Clock" SRPE43J1 

 

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Price: ₹43,000 

 

The 'Old Clock’ is a stylish continuation of the Cocktail Time series, which started as a JDM exclusive in the 2010s and quickly gained a cult following. Inspired by the Old Clock cocktail from Ginza’s sophisticated bar scene, its deep blue sunburst dial captures the glow of a drink under soft lighting, while the vintage-style numerals echo classic bottle labels. At 38.5 mm, its stainless-steel case is sized just right, housing an automatic movement with manual winding and a handy date display––all perfect for a casual night out at your favourite speakeasy. 

 

Baume & Mercier Baume 35mm Green Dial 

 

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Price: ₹58,000 

 

The Baume & Mercier Baume 35 mm Green Dial is a refreshingly modern take on sustainable luxury, proving that elegance and eco-consciousness can go hand in hand. With its sleek 35 mm steel and rose gold PVD case, this watch is all about making a statement without overcomplicating things—especially with the 4-numerals variant. The deep green dial, punctuated by minimalist baton hands and a small seconds display, feels as vibrant as it is refined. Powered by a reliable quartz movement and paired with a black fabric strap made from sustainable materials, it’s a timepiece that doesn’t just sit pretty—it tells a story. Born from the Baume collection’s mission to redefine Swiss watchmaking for today’s world, this is your perfect go-to for keeping it stylish and smartly responsible. 

 

 

Under ₹1 Lakh 

 

Frédérique Constant Classics Carrée 30.40 mm 

 

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Price: ₹94,500

 

This elegant ode to Art Deco sensibilities is a brilliant example of how the Frederique Constant has made Swiss design and craftsmanship more accessible without losing an ounce of elegance. With its perfectly sized rectangular case and slim profile, it’s a watch that doesn’t scream for attention but quietly holds its own. The deep blue dial, accented by subtle guilloché work and refined baton indexes, feels classic yet fresh, offering just the right amount of detail. Underneath, the reliable FC-303 automatic movement, based on the ever-trusty Sellita SW200, ensures precision and a solid 38-hour power reserve. Finished with a matching blue leather strap, it’s the kind of watch that fits seamlessly into your day, whether you’re suiting up or keeping it casual—Swiss sophistication at its most approachable. 

 

Junghans Max Bill Quartz 

 

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Price: ₹83,000 

 

The Max Bill Quartz is a minimalist masterpiece, staying true to the Bauhaus-inspired ethos that has defined the collection since its debut in 1961. Housed in a sleek 38 mm stainless steel case, its stark white dial features slender Arabic numerals, clean indices, and slim hands—all perfectly balanced for clarity and elegance. Powered by a reliable ETA quartz movement and protected by a sapphire crystal dome, it combines precision, durability, and understated style, making it ideal for everyday wear. For a more refined touch, it’s also available with a stainless steel mesh strap that elevates its versatile design. 

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