Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO, Panerai, spoke to Man’s World about his India plans and the brand’s recent new launches.

You have significantly increased your presence in India with a beautiful new boutique at Jio World Plaza. What does this signify in terms of your India plans, and what has been your experience in the country so far?

India holds a special place in Panerai’s plans, given its significant potential for growth. Having over a decade-long presence in the country now, we are delighted to reinforce our commitment to India with the opening of our third boutique at Jio World Plaza, Mumbai. Our expansion plans in the country align with our belief in India’s evolving market landscape. As a matter of fact, India stands out for its promising growth trajectory in the luxury market.

The new boutique at Jio World Plaza is designed to offer the same premium experience enjoyed by our customers in Europe and the US, reflecting our dedication to delivering excellence. We are enthusiastic about the opportunity to connect with a broader audience in India and anticipate the emergence of a thriving luxury market.

After a major emphasis on the Radiomir models earlier in the year, you are closing the year with some new Luminor, including the recent Panerai Luna Rossa Quaranta series. A few weeks ago, you launched the Luminor Marina Milan Edition. Tell us more about these watches.
The launch of the Radiomir collection this year has represented a very important step, as Radiomir defines where it all began for us: it was the invention of the radiomir substance for the Italian Navy to set in motion Panerai’s legendary story, and a Radiomir was the first ever Panerai watch made in 1935.

On the other hand, our goal is to continue to build on our rich heritage, while strengthening all our collection: the Radiomir, our original and timeless classic, the Luminor, the core pillar of our brand, the Luminor Due, a modern reinterpretation of our emblematic design, and the Submersible, retaining its own unique pathway in our journey of exploration.

The recent two 40mm launches – the PAM01408 Luminor Quaranta Steel DLC Luna Rossa and PAM01404 Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Luna Rossa – are part of a tribute to the enduring partnership with Luna Rossa, expounding on Panerai’s DNA in forging a portfolio of remarkable watches with a particular focus on instruments for aquatic adventures characterized by passion-driven research for advancement.

The PAM01408 Luminor Luna Rossa Quaranta cuts a sleek impression with its black 40mm Steel DLC (diamond-like carbon) case and a blue sun-brushed dial that features the date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. Powered by the automatic P.900 calibre with a three-day power reserve, its 40mm case size is a perfect fit for all-around wear.

For the traveller, the PAM01404 Luminor Luna Rossa Quaranta BiTempo delivers with its automatic P.900/GMT calibre with a three-day power reserve. Displaying two time zones, the tip of the GMT hand is gilded in red in tribute to the color of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team’s boat sail. The watch is set in a 40mm steel case and features a blue sun-brushed dial.

The PAM02319 Luminor Marina Milan Edition was born to commemorate the recently inaugurated new Casa Panerai at 19 via Montenapoleone in Milan. This is a special edition available in 319 pieces – in reference to the boutique’s address, featuring a 44mm steel DLC case with a novel blue and black dial, offering a sleek and durable design. It includes a small seconds dial, a date window, and white SuperLuminova accents. Unique to this model are engravings of Milanese landmarks on the case back and the name ‘Milano’ on its patented crown protection device.

You also recently launched your Casa Panerai in Milan, with an expected roll out around the world. How is this store different from the regular stores and sales points? 

The recently inaugurated Flagship Store in Milan offers a captivating continuation of the ‘Casa Panerai’ narrative, which began with our opening in New York.

This is not just a store, but a true home that encapsulates the spirit of Panerai – steeped in history and innovation. The Flagship incorporates influences of the city, while its design reflects the ambiance of a Salotto Milanese with unmistakable classic design elements.

The boutique includes Bar Italiano for a relaxed atmosphere, a heritage area showcasing the brand’s history, and a high-end area highlighting Panerai’s craftsmanship.

There’s also a Collector Corner for rare vintage pieces and a VIP area for private engagements, providing a comprehensive and immersive experience into the world of Panerai.

You have been at the helm at Panerai for five years now. How would you describe your experience? And what would you call your significant achievements?

Looking back, it is evident that both the company and the broader luxury industry have undergone significant transformations. When I first came in, we were at a pivotal point, navigating through a series of disruptive changes that were reshaping the landscape of the luxury market. Today, we operate in an environment where consumers have a world of information and options literally at their fingertips.

It has been a conscious effort to evolve with our clientele, recognising their desire for a holistic 360-degree experience that transcends beyond just owning a product.

It’s about crafting a journey that embodies the rich legacy of Panerai, married with innovation, offering experiences that are as unique and invaluable as the timepieces we create.

We are almost at the end of the year; what can we expect from Panerai
in 2024?
As we steer into the future, we will keep on focusing on evolving across our four fundamental collections. A key component of this evolution is embracing technological innovation, not only in terms of the materials we use but also in the making of our calibers, showcasing our manufacturing capabilities.

Our objective is to foster the creation of watches that embody an exceedingly high level of technological and innovative content, thereby uplifting the intrinsic know-how of watchmaking. This involves a range of complexities, including high-end features, dual-time functionality, and chronographs, among others, essentially harnessing the best of technicity in our offerings.