Frederique Constant has spent the last decade quietly reshaping the conversation around accessible luxury. While rivals chased extremes—thinner, flashier, pricier—FC focused on making high complication less elusive. At the heart of that shift is CEO Niels Eggerding, who took charge in the 2010s and has since helped steer the brand from niche favourite to quietly prolific powerhouse.

What sets the dutchman apart isn’t just strategy—it’s candour. Whether discussing the slippery semantics of “Swiss Made” or why robustness should matter more than thinness, he speaks plainly in an industry that often prefers myth. This year’s Watches & Wonders saw him in rare form: relaxed, reflective, and proud to debut what might be FC’s most compelling pitch yet—the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. It’s not just another democratised complication; it’s a statement that haute horlogerie can still be for people who aren’t stinking rich.

“Personally, I feel better than last year's expo,” he told me with a grin in one of Palexpo’s corner press rooms. “Sometimes this happens.” That moment of clarity lands after nearly a decade of nonstop growth—an arc that’s seen Frederique Constant double down on its values, trim the fat, and release what might be the best value-for-money perpetual calendar in modern Swiss watchmaking.

Perpetual Calendar, No Strings Attached

A perpetual calendar is one of watchmaking’s most demanding complications—not just for the intricacy of its mechanisms, but because of what it’s designed to solve. Unlike simpler calendar watches, which need manual adjustment at the end of months with fewer than 31 days, a perpetual calendar accounts for varying month lengths and leap years, ticking over seamlessly without input until the year 2100. This requires a complex system of cams, levers, and wheels working in synchrony—usually built around a default assumption that all months have 31 days, with a programmed correction for shorter ones. As a result, perpetual calendars are traditionally expensive to make, adjust, and maintain, with prices north of the ₹18 lakh mark being the norm—think Patek Philippe, Lange, or JLC. This is why Frederique Constant’s new offering lands like a statement: a mechanical watch that brings haute horlogerie down to earth without cutting corners.

At just over ₹9.3 lakh (€9,995), Frederique Constant’s new Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture continues its 2016 predecessor's value proposition, undercutting similar watches like Montblanc’s Heritage Perpetual Calendar (around €16,500) by over 40%, making it perhaps the most accessible entry point into such complications today. While its new FC-776 calibre lends itself to a thicker case—something that might divide dress watch traditionalists—it makes up for it with 72 hours of power reserve, a handsome movement finish, and what Eggerding calls “robustness”: the ability to use the pushers freely, without babying the mechanism.

The 40mm case is refined, the proportions improved, and the finishing respectable for the price bracket. While the salmon sunray dial is bold, a darker option would have rounded off the launch nicely—though Eggerding assures us that more references are coming. As it stands, this is (to me) a formal complication for the sport-watch collector who wants to suit up now and then—without reaching for a five-figure flex.

It's also a watch that feels like a natural reflection of where Frederique Constant is headed: more focused, more refined, and more open about what modern watchmaking can (and should) look like. With that in mind, we caught up with CEO Niels Eggerding to talk about the philosophy behind this new launch, the brand’s evolving strategy, and why slowing down might be the most slick career move of all. Excerpts:

The perpetual calendar has always been a flagship for Frederique Constant. Why return to it now?

We launched the first one in 2016. It was based on the Slimline Manufacture Two Calibre, 42mm case, 38-hour power reserve. It quickly became one of our signature movements. After nine years and about 5,000 units sold, we knew it was time for an update. So we developed the FC-776 with a 72-hour power reserve, and placed it in our new 40mm Classic case with softer lines and better proportions.

Salmon was a response to what collectors were asking for—something elegant but distinctive. The dial has a sunray finish with slightly recessed subdials and dauphine hands. It’s all about refined harmony. You don’t need to shout to stand out.

This watch is still under €10,000, which is wild for a perpetual calendar. How do you pull that off?

We’re smart about how we industrialise. The FC-776 shares its base with earlier movements, which makes it easier to produce and service. Our architecture is robust—maybe not as ultra-precise as an IWC, but it’s reliable. We build for longevity. You won’t easily damage our movement by pressing a button at the wrong time.

You mentioned previously that the more components you add, the more unreliable a watch becomes.

It's very simple. The tolerance we have in the component setting of the main plate is wider than many brands, like IWC. But it's much more trustable, much more reliable. Because the moment you push a button on a perpetual from IWC or similar, you might damage the movement. That's not the case with us. You can still damage it, I have to say, but it's much more robust than what we see with the competition.

What did 2024 look like for the brand?

It was a consolidation year. In 2022 and 2023, we went very high-end—tourbillons, stone dials, precious metals. But the pace caught up with our operations. We used to launch 50 models a year. Now, we’re doing 25. This perpetual calendar is the flagship for the year. We’ll release five references gradually, giving them proper attention.

We noticed a dip in the high-end segment. Many brands had overcommitted. For us, it was a moment to step back and focus on what we’re best at—delivering classic, high-quality watches that feel personal and accessible.

A lot of people online call FC “the best value in Swiss watchmaking.” Is that a label you lean into?
Yes and no. Value matters—but so does desirability. Five years ago, I wanted to make the brand sexier. So we pushed design, we did collaborations, we amped up our YouTube strategy. Today, there’s real excitement around our releases because we’re consistent. The watch should look like it costs more than it does.

Speaking of YouTube—you’ve built a surprising amount of momentum in that space.  
That’s deliberate. I have young sons, and everything they consume is short-form video. If we wanted to reach new generations, we had to be visible on YouTube. So we worked with creators, focused on storytelling, and made sure our watches photographed and filmed well.

You were one of the early adopters of stone dials in the accessible luxury space. Why?
It started in the high-end segment, but demand came quickly from markets like India and Europe. People wanted that aesthetic without the €20K price tag. So we started working with suppliers in India and Switzerland. Now, we’re moving to stone dials even in the quartz segment—still elegant, but built for volume.

Over the last three years, India has climbed from outside our top 10 into the top five. There’s a real love for classic design, and we’ve had strong partners there—Titan, Ethos, Helios. India didn’t just buy into the brand; it grew with it.

You’ve been unusually open about component sourcing and the Swiss Made debate. Do you think that honesty helps in the watch game? 
Consumers are smarter now. If we say ‘Swiss Made,’ I want it to mean something. Sometimes the dial is from India, the case from Asia—we always meet the legal value threshold, but we don’t pretend we make everything in one valley. New sustainability legislation might force full transparency, and I’m okay with that. I’d rather be ready than caught off guard. It’s part of our appeal, especially to younger buyers. They see the honesty, the finish, the movement—and it clicks. We don’t fake prestige. We build trust.

Who’s the buyer for the new perpetual calendar?
"Two groups: a younger professional, maybe early 30s, who’s looking to make a meaningful purchase—something that feels serious without being flashy. And then, a more seasoned collector who’s seen it all and wants something different. Something under the radar that still makes people ask, ‘Wait, what’s that?’"

If you could go back and give yourself advice when you first joined FC, what would it be?
Take more time for family. I worked like crazy for ten years, and suddenly my kids were growing up without me noticing. Also: slow down. Not every move needs to be fast. My speed doesn’t always add value.