Nestled in the serene village of Genthod, near Geneva, the Franck Muller headquarters stands as a testament to tradition and innovation in the world of haute horlogerie. Here, the company breathes life into a stunning 1905 mansion surrounded by classical terraced gardens. The breathtaking views of Lake Léman and Mont Blanc not only provide a poetic backdrop but also serve as a constant source of inspiration for Franck Muller's intricate watch designs.
Known as Watchland, this site is more than just a manufacturing hub; it's a pilgrimage site for aficionados of fine watchmaking. Open to the public by appointment, Watchland pays homage to the master craftsmen who continue the legacy of meticulous watchmaking and offers a unique insight into the passion that drives this prestigious brand.
On a sun-drenched Tuesday this April, after nearly fifteen years, I returned to Franck Muller's enchanting world to discover their latest innovations and speak with Nicholas Rudaz, the brand’s CEO since 2021. Born in Switzerland, raised in both Switzerland and England, and having cultivated a rich career spanning both countries, Rudaz’s leadership is defined by a deep respect for tradition coupled with a forward-looking vision. Apart from breaking into previously uncharted territory in Asian markets, he’s successfully spearheaded an ambitious range of launches; many of them reflecting both the brand's historical depth and its forward-thinking approach to watchmaking.
Our conversation with him at the iconic Watchland was both enlightening and inspiring, revealing the intricacies of steering a world-renowned luxury watch company. Excerpts:
Like Muller himself, you're a master of complications, but you also embrace very bold designs and flamboyant dials. What do clients typically seek in a Franck Muller watch?
Well, I'm glad to say that I was here already a decade and a half ago, having been with the company now for 17 years. Initially, I was the general manager, and I’ve been the CEO for the last two years. We engrave ‘master of complications’ behind every watch because this is a theme that Franck always believed in. In the late '80s and '90s, nobody was creating complications like Franck did.
And this philosophy is still applied on a daily basis. It’s very much what we strive for in every presentation at WPHH, with our focus on mechanical complications. But we are also known for our designs and our use of vibrant colors. Franck Muller was the first to introduce color in the Colour Dreams collection.
Today, I think the client who wants to buy a Franck Muller is looking for something different and unique. The advantage at Franck Muller is that we produce watches in small quantities each time, and even if they are not limited editions, we will never produce tens of thousands of identical watches. People like different colors, different sizes, different finishes, and that's the ‘force’ of Franck Muller.
Could you tell us about some notable Franck Muller launches this year, including the details and inspirations behind these new models?
Certainly. The first noteworthy launch is the Master Jumper CX, which I'm currently wearing. Originally, we created a limited edition specifically for our dealer in Place Vendome Paris, Dubail, which was a tremendous success. After four years of development, we've expanded this model globally with various new references and enhancements, including new finishes on the dials, colors, shapes, and renderings. The Master Jumper CX features a unique CX case design with one large window displaying the hours, minutes, and date. This complication is incredibly complex, utilising five separate wheels to function—two for the date, two for the minutes, and one for the hour, all requiring significant power.
How do you manage the power requirements for such a complex mechanism?
We use a double-barrel system, with one barrel at 12 o'clock and another at 6 o'clock within the movement. This design is a world premiere, as no other watchmaker has managed to incorporate three windows with simultaneous changes before.
If I asked you to name three Franck Muller products that have significantly pushed the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking over the last twenty years, which ones would you highlight?
I would go back 21 years for this. The first standout product is the Crazy Hours, developed by Franck in 2003. It's a truly unique and fascinating movement. Twenty years back, we didn't have social media, so we had to showcase this innovative watch in magazines. Most people didn't understand its complexity from just a print image. Today, however, social media allows us to share the beauty and intricacy of the watch in mere seconds, and it continues to perform exceptionally well. It encapsulates the DNA of our brand, from the Curvex case to the jumping hour complication, and it's fun.
The second product would be the Aeternitas Mega 4, launched in 2012. It holds the title of the world’s most complicated wristwatch, featuring 36 complications and 1483 components. This watch can chime like Big Ben with four gongs, calculate leap years for 999 years, and, in a typical Franck Muller fashion, it incorporates rubies on the case, which was a challenge to ensure good acoustics for the chimes.
The third would be the triple axis tourbillon in the Vanguard case. This is not just a remarkable complication; it also beautifully summarises much of our brand's DNA, blending advanced mechanical engineering with striking aesthetic design.
You are not a part of any of the big watchmaking fairs or exhibitions. What is the principle behind this choice?
We have this beautiful setting overlooking the lake and the mountains, which makes us question why we should spend a lot of money on external venues. Over the years, we've found that our clients and members of the press really appreciate coming here because it offers a more relaxed, family-oriented atmosphere where the focus can truly be on the watches and the collection.
In the beginning, we did participate at SIHH at Palexpo in 1992. But over the next couple of years, our location there progressively worsened. By the third year, our position had deteriorated significantly, prompting Franck and our co-founder Vartan Sirmakes to reconsider our strategy. They said, “Well, you know, if that’s how they’re going to treat us here, we’ve got a beautiful setting at home. Let’s just do it directly.”
Franck Muller is a well-recognised brand in India, and you've partnered with one of India’s most prominent movie stars, Ranveer Singh, as your ambassador. The personality of Franck Muller watches seems to align well with Ranveer Singh, and it appears he loves the brand for that reason. Could you share your thoughts on this collaboration?
Collaborating with Ranveer Singh has been a pleasure. I recall his visit to Watchland about five or six years ago when he first toured our factory. He shared a personal story with me about how, as a child, he promised his mother he would one day buy her a Franck Muller watch. Fulfilling that promise multiple times since then has been very meaningful for him. Ranveer embodies the right personality for Franck Muller, and I am eagerly looking forward to the right opportunity for me to personally visit India.
