Bangalore’s watchmaking heritage began with HMT in 1961, in collaboration with Citizen Watch. It's a story that budding watch enthusiasts from the subcontinent will inevitably discover. Bangalore, well-connected by land, air, and sea, boasted a wealth of skilled labour and technical professionals. Its rapidly growing defence and private sector establishments provided the perfect breeding ground for an Indian-led watchmaking effort. 

While HMT's catalogues, despite their resurgence as a collectors' playground, have largely been relegated to the history books, Bangalore's watchmaking traditions have evolved. The Bangalore Watch Company stands out as a particularly ambitious player. Built off the life savings of husband-wife duo Nirupesh Joshi and Mercy Amalraj, this globetrotting IT industry power couple channelled their passion for watches into a business that touches upon various national motifs, tuned up to proper Swiss watchmaking standards. The Cover Drive riffs on cricket-world references, while the Mach 1 pays tribute to Indian aviation heritage. My personal favourite, the Apogee, a proprietary ‘CeraSteel’-cased sports watch, celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Indian Space Program—going so far as to actually have been tested in space. 

Each of these watches tackles key watchmaking forms, from sports to field watches, all united by a commitment to tell the stories of India—all through a uniquely ’80s-kid lens that sits close to Joshi's heart and mind. We caught up with the lively Chennai-born entrepreneur to talk about India-first watch design, set against a global stage. Excerpts: 

What inspired you to incorporate Indian motifs into your watch designs? 

It's a result of our personal backgrounds and how we see the world. Both Mercy and I come from modest backgrounds—Chennai and Madurai respectively—and our professional experiences abroad influenced our perspective. Born in the early 80s in India, our parents came from a generation with limited choices, which shaped our appreciation for opportunities. We returned to India to build brands and companies, influenced by a modern vision of India, not the clichéd stereotypes. Our designs aim to represent a modern India through contemporary watchmaking and design. 

What was the first watch in your lineup that had a core clear Indian motif attached to it? 

The Mark 1, launched in 2019, was the first. It featured distinct Indian design elements, such as a thin flash that many mistook for the Indian flag, and material from a MiG-21 fighter jet. We aimed to celebrate India's aviation heritage while respecting sensitivities around military themes. This was India's first true pilot watch by international standards, featuring a Swiss automatic movement and sapphire glass, and it was well-received for its unique Indian identity. 

You then switched from aviation to cricket... a very different way to explore Indian heritage. How did that come about? 

The Cover Drive was designed to be fun, inspired by gully cricket. It brings nostalgic elements, like the countdown bezel for tracking cricket overs—unique to this watch. Unlike serious cricket watches, we wanted to capture the playful spirit of the game. Even non-cricket fans appreciate it for its cultural connection, making it a modern Indian identity. 

You’ve explored military, sports, science, and space themes in your watches. What other Indian themes are you considering for future watch designs? 

We're bringing back our dress watch, the Renaissance, next year. This year, we're extending the Mark 1 line and introducing a new theme in October. The challenge is not just thinking of themes but ensuring they resonate with customers and have longevity. Each theme must be close to our hearts, appealing to customers, and sustainable for a decade, similar to the Apogee and Mark 1. 

Given that being Indian today involves influences from all over the world, how does this evolving, globalised identity impact your approach to product design? 

We embrace a global Indian identity, avoiding stereotypical concepts. Our customers are well-travelled and appreciate both global and Indian elements. Our designs are international with subtle Indian details, like the Indian single malt industry, where the aging process is faster due to the climate but uses the same methodology as Scotch. We use Swiss components but infuse original Indian storytelling. 

How does Bangalore Watch Company compare to other established Indian watchmakers like Titan, Delhi Watch Company, and Jaipur Watch Company, especially in your commitment to creating world-class watches that compete with Swiss manufacturers? 

We don't benchmark against Indian friends; our goal is to build a world-class company from India. With 30 per cent of our business overseas and features in international publications, we aim to set global standards. We want more Indian companies to aspire to global benchmarks rather than local ones. 

How do you see the paths of replicating global trends versus creating original, internationally recognised Indian watch brands evolving in India's luxury watch market? 

Customer preferences will dictate the paths. India has room for popular styles and affordable prices, but also for original, world-class products. It's like the automobile industry with both Mercedes and Maruti having their place. We aim to build something original and world-class, similar to how Sula and Amrut carved their niches in the alcohol industry. 

Given India’s cultural heritage of watchsmiths, what are your thoughts on assembling a team experienced in watch assembly and maintenance? 

Watchmaking is undervalued in India compared to global standards where watchmakers are in high demand. We need to change this perception by creating opportunities and training. It's a long-term project requiring collaboration among several watch companies to elevate the profession's status in India. 

Tell us about your plans for the year ahead. 

Exciting times ahead with potential external capital for growth. We're launching multiple watches, starting with the Karman line, followed by a new Mark 1 in August, and another new theme in November. Next year, we'll introduce even more and open our first boutique/experience centre in Bangalore, followed by Mumbai and NCR. 

We have a studio in South Bangalore, but we’re planning a city-centre experience centre for better access. Retail economics don't work for us due to high margins and consignment expectations. Direct sales allow us to control customer experience and storytelling, leading to high repeat rates and strong relationships, despite the potential scale benefits of retail partnerships.