Hermès hasn't been one to sit on the watchmaking sidelines this year. While the brand is certainly best known for its broader-spectrum fashion chops and popular fragrances, they've had a quiet revolution brewing under the hood when it comes to their watchmaking department — one that's been dropping iconic designs such as the Cape Cod for decades, and moving into sportier watches such as the newer H08. While last year's Watches and Wonders even focused largely on this new-ish launch and not too much else, 2024 seems to be a landmark year for Hermès' timepieces, with an impressive art-installation-cum-experience centre, a whole new line and best of all, a set of haute horlogerie watches that dazzled onlookers this April. Here's a closer look at the launches:

Arceau Costume de Fête

The Arceau Costume de Fête is a celebration of Hermès' artistic flair, showcased through intricate craftsmanship techniques like leather marquetry, miniature painting, and the addition of sequins. Each dial is a vibrant canvas that reinterprets the Costume de Fête silk scarf, designed by Jan Bajtlik, featuring motifs inspired by Polish folk culture. The watch is housed in a case of white or rose gold, framed by 82 sparkling diamonds that enhance its festive appearance.

It features the Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, adding technical sophistication to its artistic design. Offered with sakura pink or electric blue Swift calfskin straps, each limited to 24 pieces, this watch melds Hermès' legacy of equestrian elegance with celebratory artistic expression.

Arceau Chorus Stellarum

The Arceau Chorus Stellarum stands out for its inventive aesthetics and mechanical ingenuity. This watch brings the celestial theme of the Chorus Stellarum silk scarf to life, featuring skeleton riders and horses that move upon activation through a pusher at 9 o'clock. These figures are set against a dial crafted with the champlevé technique, creating a constellation of stars that glow against colourful lacquer. 

The 41 mm white gold case is set with diamonds and houses the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement, which includes an 'on-demand impulse' animation, a distinctive feature that adds dynamic interaction. Offered in either abyss blue or pearly grey alligator straps and limited to just six pieces, this watch is a limited edition masterpiece that showcases Hermès' commitment to combining traditional horology with whimsical design.

Arceau Duc Attelé

Possibly the most technically impressive of the brand's launches this season, the Arceau Duc Attelé exemplifies Hermès' mastery in high horology with its integration of a triple-axis tourbillon and a minute repeater. The complexity of the triple-axis tourbillon is visible through the dial, where each of its carriages rotates at different speeds, encased in a 43 mm polished titanium or rose gold case. 

This technical marvel is paired with a minute repeater mechanism, which uses uniquely sculpted hammers and gongs shaped like a horse to chime the hours, quarters, and minutes. The dial features an avant-garde design with lozenge-type guilloché motifs and a domed sapphire that enhances the visibility of this intricate display. Each version of this watch is limited to 24 pieces, available in either matte anthracite or abyss blue alligator straps, making it a significant collector’s item for aficionados of exceptional watchmaking.

Cut

This watch is part of a long tradition of craftsmanship and design innovation at Hermès and seems to be a strong step forward for the brand's sportier, sleeker contemporary designs. The Hermès Cut echoes this heritage through its emphasis on meticulous design and functional beauty, focusing on geometric forms and sharp, clean lines that remind us of the brand’s equestrian roots, which favoured both utility and elegance. This watch is driven by the Hermès H1912 movement, a self-winding mechanical caliber that reflects the brand's commitment to high precision and quality, developed over decades of watchmaking. 

Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the movement upholds the standards Hermès has set in its previous watch collections, combining reliable functionality with aesthetic grace. The design of the Hermès Cut features innovative elements like the off-centre crown marked with an 'H', which links back to the brand’s signature style seen in other products. With its interchangeable bracelet system and a choice between metal and rubber straps in various colours, the watch not only nods to Hermès’ past focus on personalisation and adaptability but also meets modern demands for versatility and style.

H08

The Hermès H08 watch, designed by Philippe Delhotal, reflects a robust blend of the brand’s heritage in craftsmanship with a contemporary sporty and urban flair. Originally released in 2021, this timepiece is emblematic of Hermès' commitment to combining function with high aesthetic standards, seen in its meticulous attention to detail and the use of innovative materials. The H08 distinguishes itself with a unique cushion-shaped case made from a composite of braided and aluminised glass fibre and slate powder, offering both durability and a subtle, stylish appearance. 

Mechanically, the Hermès H08 is powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement, a testament to the brand's horological expertise. This self-winding mechanical movement, crafted in Switzerland, is visible through the smoked sapphire case-back, showcasing the refined finishes typical of Hermès watches such as circular-graining and satin-brushed bridges. This movement not only drives the basic time functions but also features a date display, adding practicality to its list of attributes. The watch is also available in vibrant colours like yellow, green, blue, and orange, reflecting the playful yet sophisticated spirit of Hermès, making it a suitable accessory for both everyday wear and special occasions.