If you think the watchmaking game is complex today, winding back the clock a few dozen decades tells you that sometimes, things never change. Take the 1860s, for instance. While the American Civil War raged on, American watchmakers unlocked the secrets to mass producing watch components, with the likes of the now-obscure Waltham and Elgin National Watch Companies giving Swiss watchmakers reasons for concern. Some watch historians credit this pushback from the West as the spark that ignited Swiss watchmaking's penchant for strong brand identities, collaboration and a focus on craftsmanship—something that still helps the Swiss watch market thrive today. It also spurred a rapid interest in establishing footholds in previously unexplored markets; a risky yet promising venture that then caught the eye of the world's second oldest watchmaking company.
The Favre family’s watchmaking legacy began with Abraham Favre (1685–1762), who became a master watchmaker in Le Locle by 1749. His son, also named Abraham, along with his grandsons Frederic and Henry-Louis, expanded the business by founding A Favre & Fils, where they innovated with materials and technology to enhance watch accuracy. In the early 1800s, Frederic’s son, Henry-August, co-founded Favre-Leuba with Auguste Leuba, taking their watches to new markets like Germany, Russia, and the Americas. A marriage between Fritz Favre and Adele-Fanny Leuba in 1855 further strengthened the family business, and by the 1860s, the Favre-Leuba footprint seemed poised to enter new markets.
Fritz was instrumental in this. A military man with a penchant for brand placement and publicity, he earnestly worked to feature the brand in a number of national and international exhibitions, before taking a rather unprecedented step in 1865; chartering travel to India, with an inventory of watches in tow. This was extremely unusual behaviour for a Swiss watch executive at the time. Favre-Leuba's competitors were busy trying to carve out a slice of the North American and European markets; Fritz, meanwhile, aimed to capture what he saw as one of the most rapidly-industrialising markets in the world, capitalising on India's British population, wealthy nobility, and growing upper-middle class.
A century later, Fritz' intuition seemed to have paid off. Favre-Leuba thrived in independent India, quickly earning a reputation for solid craftsmanship and iconic designs, even though the brand faltered in the wake of World War II. Ex-CEO Thomas Morf noted this, saying, "After World War II, it was due to the brand’s own offices in the country that Favre Leuba enjoyed stability in the subcontinent, which allowed it to win back its position in many other markets.” During this era, the brand knocked out a series of pioneering heavy hitters, such as the Bivouac, the first watch with a built-in altimeter, and the Bathy, the first mechanical watch with a depth gauge. It didn't play shy on the style front either; though common today, Favre Leuba also picked on key style cues from the 40s and 50s, crafting retro-themed dress watches nearly seventy years ago. For several years, it was common to spot the hourglass-shaped brand insignia on office clocks and wristwatches, especially in cities like then-Bombay and Calcutta.
Despite its long history of innovation and customer loyalty, the brand was shaken by the quartz crisis of the 1980s and changed ownership after eight generations of family control. It switched hands multiple times, first scooped up by Benedom SA in the early eighties, then LVMH in the nineties, before Titan acquired the company in 2011. Though the marque pushed for a few launches across the last decade, it's only now that a significant, all-in effort was taken to revive Favre Leuba—a culminating effort that saw the brand re-unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, along with 22 watches across three new collections.
Deep Blue Revival
The Deep Blue Revival stands as a faithful homage to Favre Leuba’s celebrated dive watch, originally introduced in 1964. This timepiece, crafted to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Deep Blue, merges historical accuracy with modern enhancements, making it a fitting tribute for both enthusiasts and newcomers alike.
The Revival retains the classic 39mm stainless steel case, now upgraded to offer a water resistance of 300 meters—an improvement over the original’s 200 meters. The sunray-finished grey dial, adorned with baton-shaped indexes, captures the vintage charm of its predecessor, while the round date window at 4:30 and the egg-shell coloured Super-LumiNova® fill on the hands and indexes add a nostalgic glow reminiscent of the radium dials of yesteryear. Powering this piece is the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, offering a robust 68-hour power reserve, ensuring the watch remains precise even after a weekend’s rest. The bezel, now with a sapphire insert, faithfully reproduces the look of the original bakelite, while offering enhanced scratch resistance and durability.
Deep Blue Renaissance
The Deep Blue Renaissance, a cousin to the Revival, offers a contemporary take on the classic dive watch, blending vintage design cues with modern aesthetics. This 40mm timepiece is available in three striking dial options—deep blue, intense green, and anthracite grey—each featuring a captivating smoked effect that transitions from lighter at the center to darker at the edges.
While the Renaissance retains the hallmark features of the original, such as the unidirectional rotating bezel and 300-meter water resistance, it introduces a more modern aesthetic. The redesigned ceramic bezel, enlarged screw-down crown, and the repositioned logo and hands lend a fresh, contemporary vibe to the watch. Inside, the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, visible through the sapphire case back, ensures reliable performance with a 68-hour power reserve. The Renaissance is available with either a rubber strap or a redesigned ‘3-link’ steel bracelet, both featuring a quick-change system for added versatility.
Sea Sky Chronograph
The Sea Sky Chronograph from Favre Leuba is a masterful fusion of elegance and functionality, embodying the brand’s commitment to precision and quality. This 40mm chronograph is housed in a 316L stainless steel case, showcasing a mix of polished and brushed surfaces that exude rugged refinement.
The watch is powered by the La Joux-Perret L112 movement, boasting a 60-hour power reserve and visible through the sapphire case back. The movement is meticulously decorated with circular graining, Côtes de Genève stripes, and a gold-plated 4N oscillating weight, highlighting the watch’s Swiss craftsmanship. Available with black, blue, or sunburst brown dials, each model features three white sub-dials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, offering a balanced, vintage-inspired look. The Sea Sky Chronograph is equipped with a tachymeter and telemeter scale, adding both aesthetic appeal and practical functionality. Water-resistant to 100 meters, this timepiece is offered with a leather strap featuring a quick-change system, making it as versatile as it is stylish.
Chief Date
The Chief Date offers a streamlined and elegant take on Favre Leuba’s heritage, combining vintage-inspired design with modern sophistication. With a 40mm diameter and a slim 10.8mm thickness, this watch is both refined and versatile, suitable for any occasion.
The textured dial, available in vibrant hues of green, blue-purple, and black, features a stamped tapestry pattern of high-relief hourglasses, adding a touch of subtle luxury. A discreet date window at 3 o’clock enhances the watch’s functionality without compromising its sleek aesthetic. Powered by the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, the Chief Date impresses with a 68-hour power reserve, ensuring it stays accurate even after a weekend’s rest. The interchangeable bracelet, seamlessly integrated into the case, adds to the watch’s sporty yet sophisticated character.
Chief Chronograph
The Chief Chronograph stands out with its blend of vintage charm and modern sophistication. Retaining the distinctive 70s-inspired ‘cushion’ case, this 41mm timepiece features a sunburst dial available in blue, ice blue, and black. The dial’s depth is enhanced by raised sub-dials, positioned at 9 and 3 o’clock, offering precise minute and second readings.
The watch is powered by the La Joux-Perret L113 chronograph movement, known for its meticulous finishes, including a blued column wheel and a 60-hour power reserve. The bezel-less case in 316L steel, with its satin-brushed finish, exudes a sport-chic vibe, complemented by an integrated steel bracelet or a rubber strap for added versatility. The Chief Chronograph also features a tachymeter scale on the inner flange, perfect for measuring speed, and Super-LumiNova® coated hands and indices for optimal readability in low light.
Drawing on the past while setting its sights on the future, Favre Leuba's relaunch offers a blueprint for many now-bygone watchmakers to find their footing in the modern watch market; perhaps Breitling's Universal Genève may follow suit in similar ways. The brand's historical catalogues are brimming with great retro inspirations such as the Bivouac to spur future launches, while an aggressive plan to ramp up production volume is in the works. If anything, the brand story of resilience, innovation, and its eagerness to retain its accessible-luxury pricing will work in its favour.
