Panerai’s presence at Watches & Wonders 2025 was less about reinvention and more about refinement. With a heritage steeped in maritime utility and cinematic swagger, the brand’s Luminor Marina collection was always a cornerstone of its identity—and this year, it got the overhaul it deserved. No gimmicks. No flashy detours. Just the sort of performance-first upgrades that reaffirm why Panerai has stayed relevant across generations.

The new Luminor Marina range holds onto everything that defines the watchmaker’s house style: bold cases, robust proportions, and that unmistakable sandwich dial. But the updates—especially the slimmer profile and vastly improved movement—signal a brand that’s listening closely to its audience without selling out on identity.

The New Luminor Marina: A Closer Look

At first glance, the 2025 Luminor Marina looks familiar—but as we found when we had the chance to handle a piece ahead of Watches & Wonders, this is a watch that wears its changes with quiet confidence. It’s an astounding presence on the wrist: balanced, architectural, and unmistakably Panerai. In person, the brand’s signature sandwich dial, crown guard, and brushed case all feel sharpened just enough—not redesigned, but resolutely refined. And in Panerai’s serene, subaquatic-themed booth, the new PAM03323 bracelet (pictured below) shimmered with particular elegance. It’s easily one of the most visually poetic dive watch bracelets on the market today.

The redesigned 44mm case is now just 13.7mm thick, down 12% from before, thanks to the new P.980 calibre—a full-rotor automatic with hacking seconds and a 72-hour power reserve. Water resistance has been pushed to an impressive 500 metres, and the materials have been upgraded: the AISI 316LVM steel is lighter and more corrosion-resistant, while the titanium version sheds a remarkable 44% in weight.

Every model comes with the PAM Click Release System for seamless strap changes, while the bracelet adds a new micro-adjustment feature for improved comfort. Most impressive of all? The new Super-LumiNova X2, now 40% brighter than the last generation, reaffirming Panerai’s grip on what a legible, mission-ready tool watch should be.

Behind these upgrades lies not just technical ingenuity, but the steady hand of someone who understands both the nuts and bolts and the brand’s broader identity. The Luminor Marina’s evolution didn’t happen in isolation—it’s part of a long-term vision shaped by Panerai’s manufacturing chief, Jérôme Cavadini.

For over a decade, Cavadini has been at the operational helm of Panerai—first as Director of Manufacturing and now as Chief Operating Officer. Based in Neuchâtel, he has quietly but impactfully steered the brand’s manufacturing engine room, drawing on earlier experience at Girard-Perregaux, Cartier, and even Richemont’s central operations. His background blends hardline industrial logic with a deep reverence for traditional watchmaking craft—a balance that’s evident in this year’s Luminor Marina overhaul.

Unlike many executives who speak in marketing mantras, Cavadini has the air of an engineer—methodical, articulate, and, above all, earnest. Our conversation touched on everything from metallurgy to customer experience, all rooted in a vision that’s more concerned with user benefit than industry noise. Here’s what he had to say:

What drove the technical enhancements this year?

Every time we develop something—whether a movement or a case—we go through a shared validation process. With the new Luminor Marina 44mm, it might seem similar at first, but it’s the result of intense collaboration. Our playground might be limited because we’re loyal to our design DNA, but that also forces us to open new windows within those constraints. And with Panerai, you can’t afford to fail.

Let’s talk materials. There’s always been a strong innovation story here—Platinumtech, Carbotech, and so on. What’s the thinking behind those?

Every time we consider a material, we ask: is the standard good enough? Can we do better? With Platinumtech, for instance, regular platinum was too soft. So we developed an alloy that’s 85% harder. It’s a challenge to machine, but much better for the customer long-term. With Carbotech, we found a material used in the medical field—lightweight, hypoallergenic—and then worked to make it wearable. It’s always about function, not just aesthetics.

While many brands are leaning into thinner, vintage-inspired pieces, Panerai seems committed to its bold silhouette. What’s your take?

Others are addressing a different kind of customer, and that’s fine. But our DNA starts with 47mm watches. So yes, we’ll continue with 47s, and average around 44. This new Luminor is slightly thinner, sure—but the change is subtle. Wearability was the real focus. And if someone wants something smaller, we now offer 38 and 40mm options as well.

What distinguishes your younger collectors from the older ones?

Maybe the biggest change is how they interact with us. The older generation reads newspapers. The younger one compares brands instantly online. They expect transparency and proof, not just words. So we open the doors of the manufacture. We show them how it’s made. You see what you get, and you get what you see.

Let’s get into the new movement—the P.980. How central is it to your vision?

It’s an evolution of a movement we had before, but more reliable and better finished. If a solution today is better than what we had yesterday, we switch. Always for the customer’s benefit. You can see this approach in our perpetual calendar too—everything set by the crown, no tools, even backwards adjustment. We spent two extra years just to make that happen, and we’re proud of it.

How do different regions, like India or China, shape product strategy?

That’s a better question for my boss [laughs]. But I can say this—we don’t chase markets with special references. We stay consistent with the product. That’s the hero. In Mexico, we sell a lot of 47mm watches. In Asia, the 38s do well. But we don’t make a 49 just for Mexico, or a 36 just for Asia. The goal is to invite everyone to experience Panerai, not to dilute who we are.

And finally—what are you wearing today?

I’m wearing the PAM 2025. It’s a model we co-created with the Paneristi community to celebrate their 25th anniversary. A very special piece.