Born as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in 1991, Watches & Wonders became a broader, more inclusive exhibition after its rebrand in 2020. With Richemont, Rolex, and Patek Philippe forming the not-for-profit Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF) in 2022, the show has grown in stature and ambition. It now unites giants and independents alike to showcase innovation, tradition, and occasionally, the odd touch of horological madness .

This year’s fair sees over 60 brands take over Palexpo, with public access returning for the final three days. Expect new collections, technological leaps, and interactive displays from maisons big and small. There’s a push for “youth and innovation” in this edition, highlighting apprentices and younger voices in the industry. A new LAB section will feature cutting-edge developments, while a city-wide “In the City” programme will transform Geneva itself into a playground of watchmaking experiences—from boutique activations to an electro party on Quai Général Guisan.

Full List of Participating Brands

Some of the key players at the Palexpo this year include:

Major Maisons

• Rolex

• Patek Philippe

• Cartier

• Tudor

• IWC

• Jaeger-LeCoultre

• Panerai

• TAG Heuer

• Vacheron Constantin

• A. Lange & Söhne

• Grand Seiko

• Montblanc

Independents and Newcomers

• Bulgari (its debut at W&W)

• Christiaan van der Klaauw

• Kross Studio

• Genus

• MeisterSinger

• Armin Strom

• H. Moser & Cie

• Czapek & Cie

• Laurent Ferrier

Special Mentions

Beyond the main event, other brands are showing separately across Geneva. The AHCI exhibition at IceBergues will host over 20 artisan watchmakers, while independents like Baltic, Bianchet, Doxa, and Furlan Marri will present at venues like Beau-Rivage and across boutiques in the city centre—while the likes of Breitling and Franck Muller will host their own exclusive events across the city. (Stay tuned for more!)

Predictions: Trends and Teasers

With over 60 brands showing, 2025 looks to be a year of refinement rather than reinvention. Expect smaller case sizes to dominate—36mm is poised to become the new gender-neutral sweet spot, as brands double down on wearability. From Bulgari’s featherlight Octo to classic reissues from Rolex and Cartier, the trend points toward nostalgia with updated proportions. Moonphase displays and single subdials are also quietly proliferating, suggesting a lean into poetic minimalism and mechanical elegance.

In terms of materials, titanium continues to build momentum, and ceramic is making a colourful return—particularly in bold hues from Louis Vuitton and Hublot. Speaking of colour, blue is 2025’s frontrunner: everything from deep navy to retina-searing turquoise will show up on dials, straps, and even cases. The broader mood? Value-driven luxury. As secondary markets continue to correct, brands are expected to justify their price tags through real substance—be it through new movements, innovative materials, or clever case architecture. There's also the big F1 connection—with IWC and TAG Heuer both having a major stake in the game.

And while some insiders are hoping for an all-steel Sky-Dweller or a platinum Datejust to mark their respective anniversaries, most agree that brand storytelling will centre around foundational pieces. With flagship collections like the Carrera, Portugieser, and Tank expected to take centre stage, Watches & Wonders 2025 may end up being the year of the icon reimagined.

The Rolex Land-Dweller: Fact, Tease, or Troll?

Now, onto the most rumoured release of the year—Rolex’s mysterious new integrated-bracelet watch. Teased cryptically on Rolex’s social media, this model is almost certainly the brand’s response to the integrated sports watch trend. Based on the video leak, it appears to have flat links (think: Royal Oak meets Jubilee), a hidden crown clasp, and a thinner profile than the usual Oyster case. Honestly, Rolex could have kept us guessing even longer—although a social media clip of brand stalwart Roger Federer (pictured above) seems to have put a full stop to the speculations; all we need now are details.
 

The name floating around? “Land-Dweller.” Yes, it sounds a bit pedestrian next to Sea-Dweller and Sky-Dweller, but the trademark is real. The kicker? A new Syloxi natural escapement—featuring dual escape wheels and no lubrication requirement—is expected to power it. If true, it’s Rolex’s boldest move in decades; and we can't wait to see what the rest of the crop has to offer.