Julien Tornare is clearly Frédéric Arnault’s chosen one. In the recent reshuffle announced by Arnault Jr., CEO of LVMH Watches, effective 1 September 2024, Tornare took over as CEO of Hublot, moving from TAG Heuer, where he served as CEO for just eight months. Tornare built his reputation by turning around brands, particularly during his tenure as CEO of Zenith between 2017 and 2023. He revitalised the niche brand by focusing on its strongest asset—the high-frequency El Primero movement—while modernising its entire design language.

Even in his short stint at TAG Heuer, he refocused on commercially successful models like the Carrera, Formula 1, and Aquaracer while securing the brand’s landmark deal as the official timekeeping partner for Formula 1. Meanwhile, Hublot, under long-standing CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, was also in need of fresh direction. Tornare’s arrival signals a renewed focus on commercial lines, and with the Big Bang celebrating its 20th anniversary, there couldn’t be a better time to revitalise the collection.

We caught up with Tornare on the second day of his maiden trip to India, where he spoke about the new India Edition watch and the opening of Hublot’s second Indian boutique in Bengaluru. Here are excerpts from our conversation:

Welcome to India. This is your first visit—what are your first impressions of the country?

I’ve only been here for 36 hours, so it’s a short trip, but my first impression is the incredibly warm welcome I’ve received from our partners and even some end clients. That’s a great feeling. I see huge potential in India, and I’ve been really looking forward to this trip. My ambition is to make Hublot the number one high-end brand in India and to establish a strong retail presence. We already have many Indian clients globally, but now I want to build India as a strong market for Hublot itself.

You’re in Mumbai, at Hublot’s first boutique in India, and tomorrow you’re off to Bengaluru to open the second. How does it feel to expand here?

It’s an amazing feeling because it shows our commitment to India. We’re investing in the market, and this is just the beginning. We need to do more marketing, host more events, and build the Hublotista community here. You’ll see me quite often—Switzerland is just an eight-hour flight away! My goal is to develop the market, meet our passionate collectors, and establish a strong community of Hublot lovers in India.

Let’s talk about your personal journey over the past year—you moved from Zenith to TAG Heuer and then to Hublot in a very short span. How do you feel about it?

I spent six and a half years at Zenith, so I was ready for a new challenge. Hublot has always fascinated me, and when the opportunity arose after a few months at TAG Heuer, I said yes. It’s true my time at TAG Heuer was short, but when the top job at Hublot became available, and LVMH’s leadership—particularly Frédéric Arnault—believed I was the right fit, it was an obvious move. They probably saw my experience in high-end luxury and my background in key markets for Hublot. More importantly, Hublot needed to evolve, to move into what I call “Hublot 4.0,” and I thrive on transformation.

You handed over TAG Heuer to Antoine Pin after just eight months. How do you feel about the transition?

Eight months is indeed short for a brand, but I was able to continue what Frédéric Arnault had put in motion—especially the Formula 1 partnership, which is a massive deal for TAG Heuer. Formula 1 is the pinnacle of motorsport, and it’s a perfect fit for TAG Heuer, so I’m thrilled to have helped lay the groundwork for that. During my time, I also worked on strengthening the Carrera line and launching a new Formula 1 edition this year. Antoine Pin loves the brand, and he’s taking over at the perfect time—he’ll be a great CEO.

You’ve just launched the India Edition Classic Fusion in green and gold. Tell us about the watch.

This watch is a tribute to India, featuring King Gold and titanium with a green strap and dial in a special luxurious finish. Gold is a key element in Indian culture, so it made sense to highlight it in this edition. We’ve never done this particular combination before, and it’s exclusive to India—not available anywhere else. It’s not a limited edition in the traditional sense, but production will be limited to about 20-30 pieces per year for the next two to three years.

We’re a month away from Watches & Wonders 2025. What can we expect from Hublot?

It’s going to be a special event for us as we celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang. While Hublot is 45 years old, the Big Bang itself is only 20, and this milestone is an opportunity to go all out. We’re launching a new Big Bang that encapsulates the essence of the original while integrating everything we’ve learned over the years. Think of it as “Big Bang 4.0.” There’ll be a special presentation, a unique collectors’ set, and a brand-new booth featuring immersive experiences—you’d better wear comfortable shoes! And, of course, there will be plenty of surprises.

Hublot is known for its innovation in materials. Will we see more focus on movements as well?

Hublot is famous for its dynamic marketing and material innovation, but I don’t think it gets enough credit for its watchmaking expertise. Coming from brands like Zenith and Vacheron Constantin, I’ve worked with purist watchmaking, and I’m genuinely impressed by the technical prowess of Hublot’s Unico and Meca-10 movements. I want to elevate the brand’s movement strategy so that people appreciate Hublot’s horological expertise just as much as its creative innovation. This will be a key strategic focus moving forward.

Swiss watch export figures for 2024 show a slight slowdown—less than 3% in value but nearly 10% in volume. How do you see the next two years for the industry?

The slowdown is industry-wide. After COVID, we had two record-breaking years, but that wasn’t sustainable—it was an artificial peak. What we’re seeing now is a market correction. The key for brands is to avoid overproduction and maintain exclusivity. Luxury isn’t about necessity—it’s about desire. If you flood the market with too many watches, you kill that desirability. At LVMH, we’re focused on long-term brand equity rather than short-term gains, and that’s the strategy I’m implementing at Hublot as well.

China remains a challenging market. How exposed is Hublot to its slowdown?

I have to give credit to my predecessors—Hublot is well-balanced across markets. China is important, but it has never been our dominant market. It accounts for around 10-12% of our business, which is manageable when conditions shift. Some brands over-invested in China and are struggling now, but Hublot has maintained diversity across regions, allowing us to adapt more easily.

A final message for Hublot fans in India and around the world?

If you want a watch that combines bold design, innovative materials, and strong watchmaking expertise, Hublot is a fantastic choice. But beyond the watches, Hublot is a community—it’s a family of people who share the same values, who enjoy life, and who love to have fun. That’s what makes it special.