When you think of Bulgari and MB&F, you probably don’t imagine them in the same sentence. Bulgari, the Roman jeweller known for its luxurious, elegant designs, and MB&F, the avant-garde horological lab that treats watches like kinetic sculptures, seem worlds apart. Yet, here we are with their latest collaboration: the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti, a timepiece that’s as unexpected as it is intriguing.

This isn’t the first time these two giants have joined forces. Back in 2021, a chance meeting between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s director of watchmaking creation, and Maximilian Büsser, MB&F’s founder, birthed the LM FlyingT Allegra. That watch blended Bulgari’s colourful jewellery flair with MB&F’s mechanical artistry. The success of that project left everyone wondering: what could they possibly do next? The answer was to take one of Bulgari’s most iconic designs, the Serpenti, and reinterpret it through MB&F’s mechanical lens.

First introduced in 1948, the Serpenti has always been a symbol of eternal rebirth and bold transformation. But turning this elegant snake into a Horological Machine wasn’t just a matter of slapping on some gears. It required a complete overhaul—from the mechanical engineering to the case design. The result? A timepiece that’s part reptile, part machine, and mechanically fascinating. Designing the Serpenti was no walk in the park. Fabrizio might say it was a pleasure to create, but the hundreds of sketches and countless 3D-printed models tell a different story. Unlike a classic round watch case, the Serpenti’s form needed to look perfect from every angle—front, side, top, back. Adjusting one curve could ruin another, making the design process a delicate balancing act.

But the challenges didn’t stop at design. Manufacturing the case was a whole other beast. The Serpenti’s case is a labyrinth of curves, making it a machinist’s nightmare. And it’s not just the metal that’s complicated—the watch features five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and a multi-faceted rear section. Each crystal is treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides, offering a clear view into the watch’s intricate movement. Achieving water resistance up to 30 metres with such a complex structure? That’s a notable engineering feat.

Speaking of miracles, let’s talk about the movement. Inside this mechanical serpent is an in-house MB&F movement that throws traditional watchmaking conventions out the window. One of Fabrizio’s central ideas was to animate the snake’s eyes, which he achieved with revolving hour and minute domes. The left dome completes a rotation every 12 hours, while the right one ticks away the minutes in 60-minute cycles. These ultra-light aluminium domes are coated with hand-applied Super-LumiNova, making the snake’s gaze glow eerily in the dark.

At the heart of this mechanical marvel is a 14mm flying balance wheel, held in place by a three-dimensional balance bridge proudly bearing the names of both brands. The movement beats at a traditional 2.5Hz (18,000bph), and you’ll find separate crowns for winding and time-setting discreetly tucked into the rear lugs. Flip the watch over, and you’ll see the power reserve indicator, along with some of the 310 components that make this timepiece tick. Given the complexity, MB&F’s artisans can only craft six to eight of these movements a month, meaning it’ll take over a year to complete all 99 pieces.

If you’re an MB&F aficionado, you might notice some familiar features from their HM10 movement, particularly the Bulldog model. But this isn’t a simple repackaging. The movement has been significantly modified to fit the sleek, serpentine design, proving once again that MB&F doesn’t do anything halfway.

While the Serpenti’s roots are firmly in Bulgari’s heritage, there’s an unexpected twist—automotive design. Both Fabrizio and Max are car enthusiasts, and their love for sleek automotive bodywork subtly influenced the watch’s design. The stepped sapphire crystal resembles the flaps on a sports car’s rear window, while the crowns could easily be mistaken for car wheels. Even the movement’s visible components have an engine-like appearance, complete with a grille featuring the Serpenti’s signature hexagonal scale motif.

The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti comes in three stunning variants, each limited to just 33 pieces. There’s a grade 5 titanium version with piercing blue hour and minute domes, an 18K rose gold model with vivid green eyes, and a black PVD-coated stainless steel edition with striking red domes. Each watch is paired with a matching hand-stitched rubber strap featuring a Velcro system, ensuring a snug yet comfortable fit. The buckles are crafted from the same material as the case, adding a cohesive touch to each piece.

Despite the Serpenti’s luxurious appearance, this watch isn’t just for show. It’s a technical marvel that bridges the gap between art and engineering. As Fabrizio puts it, “The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bulgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bulgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise.”

With a price tag of EUR 140,000 (approximately ₹1.25 crore) for the titanium and black PVD versions and EUR 161,000 (approximately ₹1.44 crore) for the rose gold model, the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti isn’t for the faint of heart—or wallet. But for those who appreciate the fusion of high jewellery and avant-garde horology, it’s a compelling choice for collectors. This isn’t just a watch; it’s a statement piece that embodies the spirit of both brands, exploring new directions in watchmaking.

In the end, the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is more than just a collaboration—it’s a meeting of minds, a blend of heritage and innovation, elegance and audacity. It’s a watch that demonstrates how art and mechanics can be thoughtfully integrated.