The recent Baselworld and SIHH watch fairs attest to the continuing popularity of diving watches around the world. Here are some of the best that were on display
OMEGA SEAMASTER DIVER 300M
This new version of the classic 1993 model is a massive upgrade. Most notably, it introduces the METAS (Swiss Institute Of Metrology) certified movement to the Seamaster 300M family through the Master Chronometer 8800, which replaces the old Co-Axial 2500. In all, there are now a total of 14 unique models in 42mm, including six in stainless steel and eight in a mix of stainless steel and gold. The date window has been moved to 6 o’clock while there’s also a re-designed helium escape valve. The James Bond of the 90s would definitely be proud. Power reserve 55 hours.
ROLEX DEEPSEA OYSTER PERPETUAL
Made of Oystersteel, the new Rolex Deepsea sports a D-blue dial with a deep-blue to pitch-black gradient, which is retained from the 2014 commemorative version for James Cameron’s Mariana Trench expedition. There are notable changes on the case/dial combination, thanks to the thinner lugs and an enlarged bracelet. The biggest upgrade though comes inside the 44mm case, in the form of the new Calibre 3235 self-winding mechanical movement. It yields a 70-hour power reserve to add to the trademark 3,900m water resistance. It’s also a certified chronometer (±2s/day precision).
ULYSSE NARDIN DIVER DEEP DIVE
The latest version of UN’s magnum opus comes with a removable guard on the crown at 2 o’ clock and the helium release valve at 9 o’ clock. The 46mm angular-shaped titanium case is adorned by 15 hammerhead sharks, with another one stamped on the caseback, and ensures a gargantuan water resistance of 1000m. Powered by the in-house caliber UN-320, which has a patented silicium lever and escape wheel configuration, the timepiece stays true to the horologist’s long history in marine equipment expertise that dates back to its 1846 chronometers. Power reserve of 48 hours; limited to 300 pieces.
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER
A favourite among eight-figure athletes like LeBron James and Tom Brady, the timepiece’s 42mm steel case and glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback lend it a water resistance of 300m. While there is a pink gold case-gray dial option, the steel version comes in a choice of four dial and strap colours — turquoise blue, beige, khaki and purple. The applied hour-markers and luminescent coating for the hands offers a stark contrast with the ‘Méga Tapisserie’ dial. Besides indicating the hours, minutes and seconds, the self-winding Calibre 3120 movement also helps indicate dive time. Power reserve 60 hours.
BREITLING SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE II B01 CHRONOGRAPH 44
This new chronograph marks the debut of Breitling’s inhouse Caliber 01 in a smaller case, to strengthen its most popular collection. The dial of the family’s flagship watch features contrasting panda subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Its mechanical movement ensures an impressive power reserve of more than 70 hours, while the 44mm stainless steel case has a 200m water resistance. Comes in a choice of a rubber strap or a Milanese mesh bracelet
BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS COLLECTION BATHYSCAPHE QUANTIEME ANNUEL
Following in the footsteps of the first Bathyscaphe launched in 1956, the 2018 iteration comes with a robust 6054.P selfwinding movement, and a black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel (with a ceramic insert and Liquidmetal® markings). Inside the 43mm satin-finished steel case is a meteor grey dial, the functionality of which is enhanced by three different indications for the day of the week, date, and month. They require correction once every year, in February. Power reserve 72 hours. Water resistant to 300m
FAVRE-LEUBA RAIDER BATHY 120 MEMODEPTH
This watch marks the 50th anniversary of the first Bathy, launched in 1968. Comes in a mammoth angular barrel-shaped 48mm x 19mm titanium case with a dial that indicates depth on two scales. Diving depth is measured uniquely via a special chamber with an open aperture on the case back. Dive depths up to 120 m are measured extremely precisely. The watch also features a mechanical depth memory (MemoDepth), which stores the maximum depth reached during a dive. The depth gauge at 3 o’clock reliably displays the value until; it is reset via the screw-in pusher at 4 o’clock – a feature that typically appears on professional dive watches. The hand-wound caliber FL321 has power reserve of 65 hours, which is displayed on the sub-dial at at 12 o’clock.
LONGINES LEGEND DIVER WATCH
The 2018 version of the watch carries forward the legendary ’60s design with signature indices, twin crowns, and a commanding 300m water resistance. What’s new though is the Black PVD coating on the 42mm case and a new self-winding mechanical movement. Power reserve of 64 hours.
BELL & ROSS BR03-92 DIVER BRONZE
The BR03, which was launched last year, followed in the legacy of the 1997 Hydromax range (water resistance of 11,100 m) and the BR02 collection from 2007. This 2018 special edition comes in a 42mm diameter bronze case, with the brand’s trademark square edges, and a black dial (also available in a steel case with a blue dial). The unidirectional rotating solid bronze bezel comes with a 60-minute scale. The fluorescent nature of the hands enhances legibility in the deep. Water resistant to 300m. Power reserve 42 hours; limited to 999 pieces.
ORIS PRODIVER GMT
This GMT watch, which is water resistant to 1000m, features the Orispatented Rotation Safety System bezel, or RSS, which prevents the inadvertent movement of the dive-time measuring bezel. The black dial features a 24- hour yellow tipped black pointer that indicates time in the second time zone. The massive 49mm case is made of titanium and houses the automatic calibre Oris 748, with a power reserve of 38 hours.
CASIO G-SHOCK FROGMAN GWF-D1035B-1
The 35-year special edition of the popular diving watch offers 200m of water resistance. As good as a dive with a computer, it logs your dive time, tracks depth, records water temperature, and logs data for up to 20 dives. The 59.2 x 53.3 x 18mm case is made from DLC coated, rust-resistant steel case. Indicates time in 48 cities around the world. The patented Tough Solar power system technology promises about 23 months of continuous operation on full charge, with the power saver mode on.
SEIKO PROSPEX 1968 AUTOMATIC DIVER’S RE-CREATION LIMITED EDITION
A reissue of one of the most iconic watches from the brand, the current-gen SLA025 gets all the predecessor’s best bits — from the sapphire crystal to a screw-down crown. The 44.8mm case is made of stainless steel while a ‘super-hard’ material is coated to endure high-pressure diving requirements. The automatic caliber 8L55 movement ensures a power reserve of 55 hours. Water resistance 300m.
LUMINOX MASTER CARBON SEAL 3800
The hi-tech carbon compound used in the making of the 46mm case of this quartz-powered automatic watch is three times lighter than titanium, claims Luminox. The Spring 2018 collection introduces pops of orange throughout the bezel, following the navy blue variant launched in 2017. Water resistance 300m.
VICTORINOX I.N.O.X. PROFESSIONAL DIVER TITANIUM
As the title indicates, the diver watch recently received a titanium upgrade. The Blue Super-LumiNova material used for hands and hour indicators provides ample luminescence for underwater conditions, while the 45mm sandblasted titanium case guarantees a 200m water resistance. Other features include a unidirectional rotating bezel and a date calendar at 4:30. Ronda 715 Swiss-made quartz movement.
CITIZEN PROMASTER ECO-DRIVE 200M DIVER CHRONOGRAPH CA0710-82L
Part of the brand’s new Promaster Marine series, this chronograph watch is water resistant to 200m. The 44.5mm stainless steel case features a unidirectional bezel and screw-locking mechanism for winder and push buttons. The light- powered automatic caliber B612 runs for 7 months.