For the last few weeks, couturier Mayyur Girotra has made New York his home. He has been soaking the city in by visiting the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Arts and Design; exploring markets and galleries in Chelsea and Soho, and visiting and discovering new eclectic, boho chic designers in Brooklyn. He isn’t in New York for a summer vacay, though — he’s there to kickstart Pride celebrations in the city with a showcase of his debut pret line, Aikya.
Girotra’s collection was presented on June 2 in collaboration with Pride at Google and the Indus Google Network (IGN). “I am thrilled and honoured to have the opportunity to open for Pride Fashion Week in New York. This holds great significance for my label and represents a pivotal step forward in promoting inclusivity, diversity, and queer representation in the fashion industry. Opening for Pride Fashion Week signifies breaking barriers and challenging norms within the fashion industry. It highlights the importance of queer representation and paves the way for more inclusive runways,” says the designer. And it was not just the runway that was gender inclusive — from the hair stylist, PR agency, makeup artist and videographer to the spot boy, everyone involved in the project belongs to the LGBTQIA+ community. The show invite carried an artwork that symbolises the intimate relationship between members of the community and New York and New Jersey.
Girotra says that this signifies the beauty of fashion, with its power to communicate and express individuality, it has the ability to challenge norms and foster inclusivity, thus giving a platform for queer individuals to be seen, heard, and celebrated. “By featuring queer models, promoting inclusive campaigns, and highlighting queer narratives, we create opportunities for greater representation and visibility within the fashion industry and society, by and large. It is through our designs and runways that we can redefine norms and create a more inclusive world for the queer community,” he shares.
Big Corporations Make Big Moves
Cracking the fashion week code and being part of momentous events such as the New York Pride Month doesn’t come easy for young designers in a cutthroat industry, especially designers who belong to the queer community. So, when big corporates like Google decide to enter a delicate conversation and support young designers, it makes — even forces — other big players to make changes. Pride at Google and IGN are subsidiaries of Google. “Young designers often bring fresh ideas to the table. By investing in their talent, conglomerates can tap into their creative potential and encourage experimentation. This keeps the industry relevant in an ever-changing world. By providing financial and creative support, conglomerates can contribute to a more inclusive and representative fashion landscape. By supporting young designers in the queer space, they actively contribute to society, demonstrating a commitment to social progress and equality,” explains the designer.
Pandemic And A New Dawn
Like every other designer, Girotra too was affected by the disruptions to global supply chains during the pandemic. While businesses called for a quick change to alternative suppliers and new inventory management systems, Girotra says that the pandemic also increased awareness about sustainability and ethical practices within the fashion industry. The pandemic pushed him to source more sustainable materials and adopt production techniques and supply chain practices with an emphasis on conscious fashion. And this was one of the reasons behind the launch of his pret label. “I recognised the changing dynamics of the industry and the growing demand for not only accessible luxury but also, slow fashion. I have witnessed a shift in consumer preferences, with an increasing number seeking high-quality and well-designed garments. With Aikya, I intend to influence more clients to not only invest in couture but also, in well-crafted, ready-to-wear pieces, which are timeless, promoting sustainable fashion consumption,” says the designer.
One India, Many Designs
Girtotra has always worked with vibrant Indian crafts and colour palettes even with his couture collections and says that our crafts are inherently diverse, just like the LGBTQIA+ community. Often deeply rooted in symbolism and storytelling, intricate patterns and motifs that hold cultural or religious significance, our crafts and colours can be reinterpreted and adapted to convey LGBTQIA+ sentiments and narratives, believes the designer. “Indian crafts often blur the boundaries between masculine and feminine aesthetics. The drapes, silhouettes, and versatility of traditional garments like sarees, dhotis, or angrakhas can inspire gender-fluid and inclusive sartorial choices,” he explains. And that’s just what he has done with his latest collection, using traditional elements to create clothing that defies gender norms. The name, Aikya, means unity, and this collection is a celebration of diversity and the power of unity. “The Aikya collection is a reflection of my belief that fashion can be a unifying force that brings people together, regardless of their differences. From intricate embroidery to bold prints, this collection is a testament to the diverse cultural heritage of India. My country’s architecture and history are woven into my designs and motifs,” he sums up.
