I was returning to the Jim Corbett National Park after almost a decade. For me thus far, Corbett (both the person and his namesake forest) has been synonymous with tigers. On my first visit, I had not only spotted multiple tigers, but found the forest throbbing with wildlife—I had woken up to a view of a bevy of deer right outside the window of my room at the Dhikala Forest Lodge and was chased by an angry elephant on our way back—there wasn’t a dull moment.  

But this time, with minor and major disasters unfolding on a daily basis, I needed some quiet time sans the adrenaline rush. All I was looking for was an uneventful short break. Like Geet from Jab We Met, I was praying for a few days of boredom; “Bas Babaji ab...aur koi excitement mat dena.” So, when the opportunity came to spend the Christmas weekend in the lap of nature, knowing that the prospect of spotting a tiger (for which choosing the right safari zone is crucial and it needs to be booked well in advance, preferably directly through the government website) would be next to none, I jumped to it. I love forests, with or without the Royal sightings. Located on the banks of the Kosi River, this sprawling forest covers an area of over 520 square kilometres. Known for its diverse scenic landscapes, it is considered one of the most beautiful national parks of the country (in fact, I had found the vast grasslands of the Dhikala zone quite similar to Kenya’s Maasai Mara). Moreover, forests in winters have a special charm, especially in the mornings with the crisp rays of a newborn sun cutting through the thick sheet of mist covering the forest floor and the heady smell of the dew-drenched foliage creating magic.  

So, here I am, on my way to the newly-opened voco Jim Corbett—IHG Hotels & Resorts’ first property in India with voco™. It is situated in Dhikuli (not to be confused with Dhikala), which I am informed by the driver, is a 4-hour long drive from the Bareilly Airport. When I finally reach the property, it is already evening. While it is cold outside with the temperature hovering around 10 degrees, I find an oasis of warmth in the form of this resort. The staff greets me with smiles—they are thorough professionals but also exude homely vibes. I am famished and before even checking out my room I head to grab some food. High tea is served with a scrumptious side of a stunning view of the Kosi River and the Mailani range. It reminds me of Teesta River and the quaint hamlets of North Bengal…and the piping hot, spicy maggi from local roadside shacks. Mostly, the maggi. I reluctantly ask the waiter if they serve any, knowing very well that it is rather unlikely for a high-end resort to have my comfort food on their elaborate menu. To my surprise, I am promptly served a perfect plate of the coveted dish within minutes, along with a cup of masala chai. It is love at first bite. As I take the last few sips of my tea, preparations get underway for a Ganga (Kosi is the third-largest tributary of the Ganges) Aarti. Soon, the three-tier brass diya stand is lit and the familiar Jai Gange Mata song starts playing changing the entire vibe of the place. For me, Ganga Aarti so far was synonymous with the crowded ghaats of Banaras and Hardwar—here amid the nature-hugged quietude the same rituals seem surreal. Looking at the sharp nails of fire scratching the darkness that seems to have suddenly plonked itself on the valley, I find myself getting goosebumps—maybe I am having my first spiritual experience on the banks of the auspicious Kosi River. But as my teeth start chattering in the cold, I give up on divine interventions and pull up my hoodie. 

The aarti over, I am escorted to my room, and on the way, I am informed that there is a Christmas tree lighting ceremony in half an hour. Although exhausted, I take a quick hot shower and trudge towards the lobby—I am yet to check out my room properly. The lobby is adequately Christmassy, but the tree is rather unique. “At voco hotels we take inspiration from the locations where we operate. We are very keen on building a strong bond with the local communities. For our first Christmas tree we have collaborated with the local women of the Tharu tribe. They have built it from scratch with natural wild grass using their traditional techniques. This is not only a part of our sustainability story, but we are also, in our own little way, trying to provide employment opportunities to the locals,” says Suprabhath Roy Chowdhury, the genial General Manager of voco Jim Corbett. The way the Tharu women wholeheartedly participate in the event proves that this voco initiative is off to a great start. And so am I! Post the tree lighting ceremony, the festive spirit is heightened with some spicy mulled wine and plum cake, which I am told is their very first batch of Christmas cake. To me it tastes like a piece of home...it reminds me of Kolkata in Christmas and those homemade plum cakes at Bow Barracks.  

Next day is the morning safari and hence after a hearty dinner at the Kosi Bar and Kitchen, I head straight to the bed—now just as sometimes the minor characters deserve their spin-offs, the bed merits a paean of its own! It is just perfection, and the very fact that it is customised as per voco specifications is a proof of how much effort and care goes into creating a voco experience. 

But it is only in the morning that I get the real feel of the place. The spacious room ends in a huge window that opens to a misty silhouette of a mountain range and down below, quiet flows the Kosi—the river that has earned the nickname of the ‘Sorrow of Bihar’ for its annual floods, is probably at its meekest here. As I stare at the view, the surreal beauty of nature holds me in thrall. A shrill sound of the intercom brings me back to reality and announces the arrival of my jeep. I wrap myself in layers of woollens and embark on my first safari of this trip. As the jeep races towards Garjiya Safari Zone, the sharp morning breeze starts pricking my face, benumbing every inch of the epidermis.  

As we enter the safari zone, the sun is yet to rise and the slumberous forest, tucked under a fluffy blanket of white fog, seems like the set of a dream sequence. As the first rays of the sun start piercing through the majestic Sal canopies, signs of life slowly begin to emerge in the form of startled deer herds and nonchalant solitary nilgais. Mist starts rising from the vast expanses of grasslands and savannahs and the meandering channels of the Ramganga River start glistening like laceration marks. It is a rather peaceful morning...which essentially also means that there are no tigers in the vicinity. "I start soaking up the beauty of nature (these days, we have a fancy term for this activity—forest bathing, or shinrin-yoku—a buzzword in mindful travel, touted as one of the best burnout cures of 2025), and it doesn’t take long for the forest to work its charm on me, making me forget even about tigers."

I return to the resort in a state of zen—so much so that I don’t feel the need for the session at voco’s Tattva spa that was on my itinerary. I skip it for a quick nap before heading for the high tea planned by voco at an undisclosed location. There is a hint of mystery with the jeep ride through the forest providing adequate amount of thrill. But nothing prepared me for the setting—a rocky dirt road leads to a riverbank, where a gorgeous spread of baked delicacies and wines are laid out. Sipping wine amid the forest while sitting on a river rock, basking in the mellow rays of the setting sun, is not an experience I had in mind when signing up for a trip to Corbett. And I almost forget that this is unfolding right in the middle of a national park. But only almost—the idea of becoming a tiger’s snack while snacking on these delicious muffins is not off the table. As I share my trepidation with Roy Chowdhury, he quips, “The riverside picnic is an experience that is controlled with proper permissions, so the probability of being eaten up by a tiger is as good as none!” He explains that this experience, organised by the resort, is a great alternative to the safari, as Safari tickets are limited, and it becomes a problem to organise for last-minute visitors. “Also, Corbett is not just about tiger safaris anymore. It has become a destination that’s in demand in all seasons. Its proximity to NCR and a decent drive makes it a perfect weekend destination even during off-season. The location of Jim Corbett makes it an ideal destination for staycations round the year. The resort ensures there are enough curated experiences like treks, trips to nearby Kumaoni villages, and riverside picnics like this, for the guests apart from the safaris,” he adds. 

But there is still one experience he keeps under wraps. After an early dinner, which involves an elaborate Kumaoni thali, I am asked to head to the Kosi River deck for a surprise. With the temperature outside hovering around 6 degrees, the open-air deck hugged by frigid darkness, overlooking the river, hardly seems to be an appropriate venue for anything pleasant. There is an eerie silence all around. As I sit on one of the chairs and sip on the piping hot tea, I dread the appearance of a Ouija board along with some paranormal activity enthusiasts. Instead, I spot the silhouette of a cannon-like structure. It is a telescope. As I look up, the sight I behold transports me to some other world—the sky seems like a mysterious seductress wearing a black sequined chiffon. Living in Mumbai—where ‘stars’ are spotted in front of airports and gyms, and where the smog-smudged, high-riser stabbed sky of the neon night hardly tempts one to look up, the beauty of the night sky is largely experienced second hand. But today standing beneath a clear winter sky studded with stars, I find myself getting mesmerised by its sublime beauty. “We have partnered with Astroverse and with the help of their astronomy experts we offer our guests solar observation during the day and star gazing in the evening. Away from the haze and hustle of the city, at voco Jim Corbett, you can observe the vastness of the universe through our telescope under a clear sky,” smiles Roy Chowdhury as he arrives with a member from the Astroverse team. What follows is a magical hour of spotting stars, galaxies, and constellations through the telescope. As I revisit the pages of my school geography book, learning about how stars are born and how they die, once again the realisation of the ephemeral nature of life and the insignificance of our personal sorrows and pains in the larger scheme of things dawns on me—life indeed “is a tale told by an idiot, full of sound and fury, signifying nothing”. But probably it is the beauty around you, the beauty of the nature, of nights like these that makes it all worth it.  

The next morning as I leave the property, I leave a piece of my heart on the banks of the Kosi River—Corbett, for me, is now much more than its tiger safaris. It is a place to just be and let the nature, along with the ever-smiling staff of voco, spoil you with sensual delights and purge your soul of the detritus of urban hustle.