Fourteen mountain peaks stand over 8000m, and Nima Rinji Sherpa became the youngest mountaineer to summit all eight thousand-ers (as they are called), when he ascended Tibet’s Mount Shishapangma, at 6.05 on a chilly Wednesday morning (13 October). There was something very poignant about Nima's expedition culminating in a successful ascent of Mount Shisapangma. It's the same mountain where an avalanche claimed the life of his mentor, friend and celebrated mountaineer Tenjen Lama Sherpa, last fall. Nima was about to begin his ascent when the tragedy struck. He quickly got involved in rescue efforts, helping the stranded climbers return safely to the base camp. Breaking records was no longer a priority, says Neema. 

Tenjen, hailed as the strongest and most skilful mountaineer, had set a new record of climbing all '8000-ers' in just 92 days. His death had shaken the entire mountaineering community, including Lima, who even started contemplating retirement from his fledgling climbing career. “I never thought this could happen to someone like Tenjen,” quips Nima on a Zoom call. On mountains, there's a thin line between tragedy and triumph. Countless dead bodies wrapped in a white snow cover come on the way to the top, always reminding the climbers about the fickleness of life at these high altitudes. “We all believe we are not going to die but you never know what fate has in store for you. I just realised that Tenjen wouldn't want me to feel low about myself. He would have hated me for quitting climbing, since he always wanted me to win in life. That's how I convinced myself to keep going,” he says. 

Nima seems equal parts relieved and proud now. But he doesn't like using the phrase ‘conquering’ to describe his feat of climbing eight thousand-ers. “Mountains are the majestic force of nature. You can never conquer them. You just touch and come back, because they welcome you,” says Nima. This reverence for mountains is something that has been ingrained into him. 

Growing up, the tales of the mountain were the most profound source of entertainment for him. He would hear these stories from his father, Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, who was the youngest climber to summit the majestic Everest without supplemental oxygen. He would also hear them from his uncles, Mingma Sherpa and Chhang Dawa Sherpa, who achieved the rare feat of being the only sibling pair to climb all eight thousand-ers. Nima's own odyssey began when he decided to climb Mount Manaslu (8163) as a photographer. He was more inclined towards the creative pursuit of photography and filmmaking than the strenuous task of mountaineering. But as he pushed towards the summit of Mount Manaslu, his first attempt for 8000m, he realised that he ‘enjoyed climbing more than documenting others’. 

It was at this moment his leisurely ascend to Manaslu turned into a full-blown mission of climbing the fourteen highest peaks on the earth. Challenges were plenty, but what made this journey extremely treacherous was his tender age. His body is not fully developed yet; thus he was more prone to muscular cramps and weariness than seasoned climbers. The nagging cramp would plague him very frequently, and he would bank upon his immense mental resolve to sail over. 

The most grueling episode of the journey, recalls Nima, was the ascent to Gasherbrum II, where he had to push for a stretch of 25 hours without any break, after touching the Gasherbrum I. “It was 25 hours of pushing myself to an unimaginable extent. I didn't sleep, had less food, and my energy was dipping with every step. It was the most challenging part of my entire journey,” says Nima. Strangely though, his weariness vanished in thin air once he reached the summit, for Nima knew the immensity of what he had achieved. Gasherbrum II has a reputation for being one of the deadliest mountain peaks among all 14 peaks. 

It would take him 740 days to complete this lofty mission that had everyone who knew him in thrall. His family couldn't accompany him on his trip, of course. But mentally they were as invested as Nima himself. A sense of calm was restored only when he completed his 14th peak. But this calm is unlikely to last for long, as Nima has already set his next goal: to embark on an ascent of Manaslu in Alpine style (without oxygen, ropes and any support), that too in winter when the conditions are the least conducive. The winter ascent of 8000m peaks in Alpine style has never been done before. “It's about making history. I will be climbing with Simone Moro, who's like the Michael Jordan of mountaineering,” says Nima, who will start preparing for this ascent once he feels well-rested. “My body is a bit worn out, as the climb took a lot from me, and I didn't have enough food. After this break, I will return to the mountains to familiarise myself more with the ropes and technical tools and focus on building muscle strength. I will be taking additional magnesium and vitamin C to support my body during this climb,” he adds. 

One wonders what fuels Nima to undertake such odd-defying endeavours from such a young age, when he could have spent his days playing games and watching series. It's not money, surely. He admits he comes from a fairly privileged family, and always had a free hand in choosing his career. It’s not the allure of getting his name inked in record books. Nima wants to upend the stereotype associated with his Sherpa community. He wants to show the world that Sherpas are not just mere guides for foreign climbers. “The Sherpas are incredibly strong, but just lack the funding and sponsors that Western climbers have. I aspire to change that. I come from a privileged family, and I can speak good English. I want to use my voice for the betterment of this community,” concludes Nima.