When Sivaraj Babu started surfing, at the tender age of 11, little did he think of making a career out of this. Born to a fisherman family in Mahabalipuram, the historic town along the Coromandel Coast, Sivaraj was no alien to the thrill of the seas. The whole idea of fun, for him, revolved around the vast expanse of water, but surfing never occurred as a possibility, till he met Mukesh Panjanathan, who started the surf school in his locality. Mumu, as he's fondly known, was the first to learn surfing from the fisherman's community in Mahabalipuram, and he shared his learnings with local kids for free. “I started hanging out more with him and understood the basics of riding the waves. Even when I didn’t have proper equipment, I would just take any floaters and catch the waves,” says Babu. He made history last year by becoming the first Indian to qualify for the ISA World Surfing Games.
When Siva started out, the number of surfers was merely above a dozen, spread across the nook and corners of the Indian coastline. Surfing was seen as an amateur pursuit, not a discipline where a viable sporting career was possible. The likes of Siva played an instrumental role in breaking this stereotype. Today, there’s a recognised governing body for the sports, a conscious effort from the Department of Tourism to organise surf festivals to attract some of the best athletes from across the world, and a plethora of surf clubs have opened up in cities like Varkala, Mahabalipuram, Mangalore, and Goa. In March, the first International Surfing Festival took place on Varkala-Edava Beach.
Rammohan Paranjape, the first surf photographer in India, has seen the unprecedented change in the scene very closely. Paranjape’s quest with water sport began in 2005 with Mantra Surf Club, the first of its kind in the country, based in Mangalore. Incidentally, Paranjape got a camera around the same time, and he started to document the wild, thrilling world of surf back when it was still in its pre-nascent stage. “The popularity of surfing in India has surged over the past two decades, with an increasing number of surf schools and clubs emerging along the east and west coasts,” says Paranjape. “Once considered a casual pastime, surfing has now captivated the younger generation and become a sought-after activity, particularly in the southern region. What was once a unique hobby for a select few has evolved into a thriving industry within the adventure sports and beach lifestyle sectors,” he adds.
Mangalore is where it all started, but other cities are not far behind. Paranjape quips how Goa has a great community of surfers, and the conditions there are beginner friendly. “Varkala, Covelong Point, and Puducherry are also great destinations to begin your surfing journey,” says Paranjape.
What makes India a great destination for surf enthusiasts is primarily the consistency and diversity of the waves. “In Mahabalipuram, you don't have to wait more than 40 seconds, and you don't get waves like that anywhere,” says Babu, adding that it's the monsoon when waves become treacherous, otherwise it’s safe for beginners too. Unlike some of the popular destinations like Hawaii or Bali, the Indian coastline offers uncrowded surf spots, and the accommodations are very affordable. Spanning across a stellar 7,000km, the Indian coastline has solely been associated with fishing. But it is slowly becoming a global hotspot for water sports enthusiasts. “The surfing industry in India remains in its infancy, with significant untapped potential in coastal regions such as Gujarat, Maharashtra, and Odisha. Despite its current nascent stage, I believe that the sport will continue to gain popularity and expand across the country in the coming years,” concludes Paranjape.
Places To Learn Surfing
Mantra Surf Club
Location: Mulki, Goa, Udupi
Price: Rs 6,500 to Rs 58,990
Jack Hebner established India's first surf school near Mangalore in 2004, and two decades later it still remains the most popular choice among surf enthusiasts to begin their journey. They offer three lessons across three categories: beginner, intermediate, and advanced.
Shaka Surf School
Location: Kodi Bengare, Karnataka
Price: Rs 8000 to Rs 23,000
Located in the scenic village of Kodi Bengare, with the Arabian Sea overlooking the left and the Suvarna River on the right, Shaka Surf School is the brainchild of Tushar Pathiyan and Ishita Malaviya.
Kalliallay Surf School
Location: Puducherry
Price: Rs 1700 to Rs 24,000
If you want a place to indulge in cheap booze after sweating out in the sea, head over to Kalliallay Surf School on the Serenity Beach of Puducherry.
Moon Waves Surf School
Location: Varkala, Kerala
Price” Rs 1500 to Rs 9,000
Moon Waves is the most popular surf school in Varakala, offering surf lessons to beginners for as little as Rs 1,500, and not only that, but they would also drop you to the best surf spot of the day for a mere Rs 100.
