India is one of the fastest-growing markets in the beauty sector in the world and men are a big part of it. Not only has this led to many international brands making an entry in India, but it has also made companies realise that men are important consumers, too, when it comes to skincare and beauty products. Even actors Idris Elba and Brad Pitt have their own skincare brands today and are slowly helping change notions of beauty and masculinity. If you have been wanting to jump on the skincare bandwagon, but are confused about what to start with, read ahead.
Dirty Business
Your skin has a protective barrier, which is your first line of defence, against every external trigger. So, caring for and repairing your skin barrier is extremely important in delaying signs of ageing and making your skin stronger. “We need to protect the barrier to retain moisture and prevent any excessive transepidermal water loss. Retaining moisture keeps the skin more hydrated and supple, while a faulty skin barrier allows the skin to get affected by external agents like oxidative stress, pollution and sun rays,” says Dr Aakriti Mehra of SkinGenious, Mumbai.
But before you slather creams and serums, you need to know the basic, first step of skincare — cleansing. “Male skin is more sebaceous and has a tendency to produce more oil, making it prone to acne and congestion. The absolute basic skincare routine should include cleansing and exfoliation in addition to good hydration and sun protection to keep the skin healthy,” Dr Mehra cautions.
And no, just splashing your face with water or washing it with bathing soap will not do the trick. To remove excess oil and the dirt stuck, you’ll need a good cleanser to help clean your skin, remove dead cell buildup, prepare it for the skincare you will apply next and improve absorption. “Not cleansing your face can lead to bacterial overgrowth, dermatitis, inflammation, anything related to the accumulation of dead skin cells and pollutants,” warns Dr Mehra. Choose a cleanser based on your skin type. If your skin feels stretched and dry post washing, chances are the cleanser is too harsh for your skin. Glycolic acid and salicylic acid are ingredients you should look for in your cleanser as they help unclog pores from within. “I prefer gentle cleansers for acne-prone skin to avoid over drying.”
Hydrate, Heal, Glow
The next important step is moisturising. Dry and oily skin needs hydration, especially to repair and replace any loss of hydration after cleansing. “It is a common misconception that oily skin doesn’t need hydration or moisturising. However, if you don’t hydrate oily skin, the sebaceous glands start assuming the skin is dry, and as a response the sebum (skin oil) production increases, thereby clogging more, leading to more acne, whilst the skin remains dehydrated. Look for the term non-comedogenic on your moisturiser, which means the ingredients will not clog your pores,” says Dr Mehra. Also look for niacinamide (a healing and hydrating ingredient), and hyaluronic acid in your moisturiser, apart from regular ingredients such as glycerine, all of which are easy to introduce to your skin. Aloe vera is another soothing ingredient good for male skin. For dry skin, get a moisturiser with ceramides, which help rebuild the skin.
Sun Protection
After cleansing and moisturisation, comes sun protection. You need to apply sunscreen to prevent skin ageing and UV damage that may lead to pigmentation and other skin-sensitising issues (including cancer). “Always choose a sunscreen with a texture that feels comfortable for your skin because the importance of sunscreen lies in re-application,” the doctor suggests. Sunscreens today are available in many light gel formats, which are easy to apply.
Level Up
If you are someone who has been using a cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen already, up your skincare game with serums with easy actives, used before moisturisers. “Serums are targeted treatment for your skin, and they can help both, repair as well as create major differences. Actives are potent, so as a beginner, irrespective of whatever age, you should start with easy actives that will not create new issues, when used improperly,” says Dr Mehra. Her favourite ingredient for a younger age group is niacinamide. Vitamin C is crucial for older skin, but start with a serum with low potency.
If you have pigmentation, use glycolic acid for gentle exfoliation, and for anti-inflammation, azelaic acid is a good starter. “Retinol is a tricky ingredient to introduce. It can be skin-changing, because it impacts cell turnover and reduces signs of ageing. If you are a beginner, start with a beginner’s retinol and use it two to three times a week, and then gradually build it up into your routine,” says Dr Mehra.
