Gucci: In one of the most hotly anticipated shows of the season, Gucci’s sparkly new creative director Sabato de Sarno took to the runway for his debut offering. A mammoth task considering he was taking over the baton from the maximalist magician Alessandro Michele. But the 39-year-old Italian went in for the kill with the Gucci monogram on flirty playsuits, red hot burgundy skirts, barely-there shorts, a neon fringed long coat and chunky loafer platforms that are guaranteed to spike sales. And that’s perhaps what Sarno’s intention was coming into the stories house—to bring Gucci back into the mainstream with accessible wares that don’t intimidate the wearer. Clothes you know will fly off shelves for the affluent masses but don’t necessarily excite the informed fashionista. It belies the question then; did he play it too safe for his debut show? Critics are divided on that front but what emerged was a distinctive vision: to target a definitive mainstream audience that can and wants to wear Gucci all day, every day.
Tom Ford: The label may be just 20 years old, but in Tom Ford’s SS2024 collection, under the new creative direction of Peter Hawkins, we witnessed a compelling revival of the Ford era at Gucci. This comes as no surprise, considering he worked with Ford for over 25 years. From the leather croc skirts and jackets to the sheer dresses adorned with metal belts and unbuttoned shirts that dipped below the naval, the collection exuded sleekness, chicness, and glamour and took us back to the 90s when Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss ruled the ramp. Sensuality flowed seamlessly, from the women’s white shorts and jacket ensemble to the men’s salmon pink suit paired with a button-down shirt. In summary, what resurrected Gucci from its 90s slumber is still palpable in Tom Ford’s ability to inject that unmistakable glamour into the brand’s DNA.
Prada: Following last season’s viral sensation, Prada channelled the show space’s liquid cascade into SS2024 RTW womenswear. Raf Simons and Miucca Prada refocused on garments and intricate detailing. Ethereal fabrics created lightweight dresses, evoking jellyfish-like fluidity. Menswear-inspired silhouettes adopted architectural forms, challenging formal norms. A tribute to Mario Prada’s 1913 handbag design added cultural depth. Prada reimagined luxury with elegance and innovation.
Diesel: Unfazed by relentless rain, Diesel staged a mesmerizing show on the vibrant ‘Red’ Runway. Amidst 5000 umbrellas, models flaunted bleached denims, distressed tops, anoraks, and daring sheer dresses with neon borders. Sensuality met urban coolness, undeterred by the weather. Memorable moments included shredded jersey dresses, muddy denim with apron-like overlays, and eye-catching D bike helmet baseball caps.
Giorgio Armani: Armani: Armani’s SS2024 collection embraced lightness and comfort for women. Satin trousers, organza blouses, silk dresses, and metallic belts exuded elegance. A palette spanning bronze, gold, sea blue, emerald-green, and metallic silver culminated in salmon pink. Flats replaced heels, offering practical sophistication in each ensemble.
Fendi: The SS2024 collection, a collaboration between Samantha Jones and Carrie Bradshaw, showcased impeccably crafted knitted turtleneck dresses, luxurious leather overcoats, abstract tops, and striking orange-red gloves. Clean lines and finesse left a profound impact. A star-studded front row, featuring Demi Moore, Linda Evangelista, and Naomi Campbell, complemented the stunning designs. Iconic Fendi handbags took centre stage.
Versace: Donatella Versace described the collection as “joyful and sharp,” signaling a potential shift to a more subdued style for SS2024. Despite a touch of minimalism, Versace maintained its trademark glamour. Front-row guests included Demi Moore, Kim Jones, and supermodels Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid. The show’s highlight was ’90s supermodel Claudia Schiffer closing the show, leaving a lasting impression.
Ferragamo: Maximilian Davis’s third collection marked his growing confidence in realizing his unique fashion vision. The palette interplayed intense blacks, rich greens, understated whites, and serene beiges, accented by vibrant red. The collection featured 64 looks, including sumptuous leather car coats, tailored linen jackets, evening dresses, and artfully cut ethereal long sleeves, showcasing Davis’s design acumen.
Moschino: Founded by Franco Moschino in 1983, Moschino has consistently defied conventional fashion norms with its irreverent and humorous designs, marking four decades in the industry this year. With the creative director’s throne vacant, how does a brand celebrate such an anniversary? The answer lies in taking cues from the Moschino team. Enter Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu, and Katie Grand, four influential women from the fashion world who meticulously curated each decade of Moschino’s rich history, presenting an impressive array of archival looks. From timeless classics to bold cowboy hats and vibrant floral patterns to provocative slogans, Moschino’s runway shows remain theatrical spectacles, passionately celebrating the unconventional and embracing irony.
Image Credit: Tag Walk and Getty Images
