British designer Paul Smith’s refreshing (and youthful) perspective on classic tailoring was on display at the widely anticipated Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. With the spotlight on examining where tailoring ends and workwear begins; the collection, aptly titled as “The Suit (But Different)”, blends comfort with the allure of contemporary trends, while staying rooted to the brand’s classic aesthetics. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection features a stunning comeback of waistcoats in vibrant hues such as crimson red, salmon pink, and vegan gold, denim with light accents, sweater vests, and trenchcoats emblazoned with abstract paint motifs.

True to its title, the collection introduces the concept of a “Breakfast Suit,” where tailored and classic striped boxer shorts are artfully paired with traditional suiting and workwear jackets. Relaxed and pyjama-inspired looks are elegantly styled with matching ties, while trousers feature intriguing side cuts, adding an element of interest to the lower half of the ensembles. “Tailoring is often associated with seriousness, but I’ve always believed in showcasing the fun and joy it can bring, especially now. This show pays homage to suits and tailoring as an art and craft that requires exceptional skill and expertise. However, it also aims to inject humour and delight back into the smart dressing,” avers Smith.

Satin is the choice of fabric for the collection, as evidenced in a variety of garments, from three-piece suits to bomber jackets. That aside, one of the most interesting highlights has got to be that a volley of models lugged belted trousers around instead of traditional bags, offering an innovative take on optional dressing. The overall silhouette is fluid, encompassing a range of precise, trim cuts in classic suiting fabrics, as well as billowy, exaggerated shapes in lightweight casual materials. A military-meets-modern aesthetic dominates the collection, with workwear and utility-inspired shapes and details, such as tab waists and wider lapels, adorning the suit jackets, stitched carpenter-style trousers, and six-button double-breasted jackets.

Prints have a significant role to play in this collection , elevated with a touch of Paul Smith’s trademark sense of humour. The “Life Drawing” print, a hazy collage of archival tailoring, suit patterns, and neoclassical references, adds a vibrant splash of colour to the collection, further enhancing its visual appeal. 

Image credits: Tagwalk