The new year comes with major fashion energy—and in Milan and Paris this January, the best of menswear from the world’s most luxurious brands hit the runway in myriad ways. Pharrell Williams, the men’s creative director of Louis Vuitton proved his might as a showman as much as a designer with a rodeo-esque collection to a starry front row that included Bradley Cooper and Carey Mulligan. At the Zegna showcase, artistic director Alessandro Sartori conjured up the perfect hybridisation of tailoring, sport and elevated street for a sublime menswear collection. Sabato De Sarno at Gucci presented his first men’s line in Milan to much applause. On all fronts, the first showcase of the biannual Men’s Fashion Week proved to be a hit. Here are the highlights.   

Gucci  

The mega Italian house’s newly appointed creative director Sabato De Sarno presented his debut menswear line Gucci “Ancora” that revived classic, good ol’ men’s clothing with an edgy Studio 54 twist. Sharply tailored suits, Rosso pops, and a touch of disco glamour—De Sarno heralded a new narrative for Gucci that’s only looking to get better and better.   

Emporio Armani  

Set against the backdrop of an imaginary lighthouse, Emporio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection at Milan Fashion Week captured the essence of the sea. Nautical-inspired looks, sharp tailoring, and a subdued palette are sturdy testaments to Armani’s mastery of formalwear.  

Louis Vuitton  

Perhaps the buzziest show on the calendar—in no small part thanks to artistic director Pharrell Williams—Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection nodded to cowboy culture and in turn paid homage to his Virginia roots. Wiliams went hell for leather, fringes, his signature pixelated motifs on the Damier print, dazzling cowboy hats, and best of all, introducing 10 different designs of the Timberland workboot, including a limited-edition one with tongue pendants featuring the LV monogram in genuine gold.   

Loewe  

Jonathan Anderson infused Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection with a touch of vibrancy, drawing inspiration from American artist Richard Hawkins. Playful kinks were set off by diverse American iconography, creating a collage of modern masculinity. And who better than actor Jamie Dornan to be the new face of the brand that’s fast becoming a favourite amongst a cultured fashion set.   

Zegna  

For the past few years, creative director Alessandro Sartori has cleverly strived to shift the narrative at Zegna from stiff tailoring to classy, cool menswear and it couldn’t have been more exemplified than with his recent showcase. A poetic display of cashmere flakes—echoing the brand’s blending rooms at Oasi Zegna—sat sweetly on the most relaxed silhouettes that could place you in the chalets of Gstaad as much as the palaces of Rajasthan.   

Hermès  

Hermès’ artistic director Véronique Nichanian keeps on giving. For over three decades, the powerhouse at the French house, has underscored the essence of a wholesome man and the clothes to go with it. For 2024, Nichanian iterated that thick sheepskin coats, checked suits, trim leather jackets and a silky bomber jacket in pea green are the name of the game. Clothes that are not bound by trends but look as good today as they would 20 years from now.   

Dolce & Gabbana  

For years now, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been the purveyors of quintessential Italian fashion: grand, extravagant, mythical and glamorous. This time around, the designer duo delivered, and then some. Exquisite suits pared down for the modern man; creamy satin blouses draped like liquid gold for the provocateur; and playful bows for the whimsical guy. There was something for everyone.  

Canali  

The Italian tailoring house is often an understated spectator to the frenzy of fashion week—showing up season on season with the best textiles wrapping the most wearable clothes. Designed for a man who likes to look and feel good, all at once. For FW 2024, Canali presented ‘Into Nature’ that raised a toast to sublimely textured fabrics, double-breasted peacoats; Saharan jackets; and never-failing plaid patterns in shades of dark grey.  

Photo Credit: Tag Walk