Sandals are the bikinis of the footwear world. Breezy, yes. Convenient, yes. Inappropriate in non-casual settings? Perhaps. Despite being over 10,000 years old, there still exists a certain faux pas—not because of what they do, but because of what they can’t: cover your toes. Try entering a club with sandals, and you’ll be thrown out. Try entering a fancy club with sandals, and you’ll be thrown out while being laughed at. There always seems to be a modern culture war between people who are pro-foot, anti-foot, and those who are sexually excited by them.

“They’re definitely experiencing a resurgence, particularly among younger, urban audiences,” shares stylist Divyak D’Souza. Unlike in the West, which seems to have a love-hate relationship with open-toe footwear, sandals in India are more about convenience than aesthetic choice. As D’Souza points out, “Sandals have been a staple in India for centuries, largely due to our tropical climate, which calls for well-ventilated and easy-to-slip-on footwear. In India, sandals never truly went away—they’re embedded in our culture, especially with the habit of removing shoes when entering a home.”

Sandals have been worn by everyone from Spartan soldiers to Greek philosophers—not to make a statement but for their convenience. Like any other piece of historical clothing, their popularity has been cyclical. In Egypt, sandals made of papyrus and other materials, including leather and wood, were worn only by important personages. Similarly, Hermes—the god, not the brand—used winged sandals to deliver mail between different Greek pantheons.

In Japan, the geta sandal has been worn by various people throughout history, including high-ranking courtesans who wore tall, lacquered geta called "koma-geta" during the feudal period. These were often paired with kimonos or yukata for special occasions like parades. Geisha and maikos, or apprentice geishas, were required to wear tabi, traditional Japanese socks, with their geta. Seafood and fish merchants wore very tall geta called "tengu geta" to keep their feet above fish scraps on the floor of their shops. Even sushi chefs during the Heian period wore geta to keep their yukata clean from mud and snow, with the high soles raising their feet 4–5 cm off the ground.

A pair of Henrio sandals from Hermès

With the rise of Christianity in the West, sandals on women were deemed “too revealing.” Similarly, soldiers and travellers needed more encompassing footwear to cover their feet during European winters. Slowly, sandals fell out of vogue in medieval high fashion, becoming more associated with peasants due to their simple construction. As fashion cycles through the ages, sandals once again find themselves at the forefront of contemporary style. 

Today, while sandals have evolved, their PR hasn’t. Often associated with hippies and casualness, sandals were long looked down upon. But with Gen-Z embracing their extra, extra oversized T-shirts and baggy pants, open-toe footwear is making a stylish comeback. “It's the sheer variety of styles now available across multiple brands that have brought sandals back into the spotlight. For casual everyday styles, Birkenstocks or slides from sporting brands like Adidas are popular choices. There are also sandals designed for more adventurous activities like hiking and trekking, with brands like Luna Sandals leading the way. For formal occasions, you can opt for well-crafted leather sandals, such as Peshawaris, fisherman sandals, or huaraches. These leather materials work well for both festive outfits and formal occasions. Additionally, the socks-and-sandals trend has made a significant comeback, especially among Gen Z, adding to the popularity of sandals,” shares D’Souza.

Perhaps just like the work culture today, a sandal-wearer isn’t completely looked at as a corporate pariah. Similar to sneakers, boots, and shoes, the current versatility of sandals allows them to find a loophole in the formal workwear code. According to D’Souza, “Sandals can be work-appropriate, especially in jobs without strict dress codes. I wear sandals all the time, and if your workplace is slightly more formal, a finely crafted pair of leather sandals can complement tailored outfits, kurta-pyjama sets, or shirts and trousers. Simple two-strap sandals, Peshawaris, or fisherman sandals can all work for a formal look. Additionally, traditional Indian styles like Kolhapuri chappals and simple leather mojris (when not too embellished) are versatile options that can be paired with office attire like linen trousers and tailored shirts.” He adds his own personal experience, “I typically style my sandals with a baggy shirt and tailored shorts, adding some man jewellery, a sling bag for essentials, and a retro Casio watch. This casual, relaxed look is my go-to for a day about town.”

A pair of Birkenstock Arizona

And while there are ways to be taken seriously while wearing open-toe footwear, D’Souza does have a few things to caution: “If you’re wearing sandals, well-maintained feet are a must. Regular pedicures are essential to keep your feet exfoliated, moisturized, and looking neat. Also, consider the occasion when choosing sandals. Avoid wearing outdoorsy or vacation-style sandals to formal events or weddings; instead, opt for styles that match the formality of the occasion.”

Recommendations - 

Fisherman / Huarache / Peshawari sandals: Tijori, DMO Dot, Nisolo, RPS, Fabindia, DMO Dot, Monk Story;

Everyday: Neemans, Paduks, Birkenstock

Outdoors: Luna, Teva & Keen