In 2019, Virgil Abloh made a bold claim, stating that streetwear was no longer relevant. However, his words felt disconnected from the reality in India, where streetwear culture was surging. Abhishek Gandhi, a prominent voice on Instagram known for discussing sneakers and street culture, was spearheading this movement. Gandhi has since become a well-known figure, collaborating with musicians like Kayan (Ambika Nayak) and co-founding the 'All You Can Street (AYCS)' festival. AYCS is a three-day event in Mumbai that showcases homegrown brands, promotes progressive fashion, and features music, art, culture, and more. In a recent conversation, Gandhi shared his insights on the state of street culture in India and why it’s more than just oversized t-shirts and cargo pants. 

*Excerpts from the interview 

Abhishek Gandhi, co-founder of AYCS

How did AYCS get started? 

We kicked off All You Can Street when I was just 19, and the name came from a teenager's perspective. Early on, I learned that streetwear isn't a one-size-fits-all thing; it's different everywhere. While in some places, it's about what you wear on the streets and how it reflects you, in India, it got boxed into oversized shirts and baggy pants way too soon. 

So, we decided to embrace progressive fashion. Our lineups have evolved, featuring labels like Day and Age, who work magic with vintage fabrics to create killer jackets, and Uology, known for their standout women's wear. And then there's Polite Society, not exactly streetwear, but everyone from Ananya Pandey to Disha Watney rocks their clothes. 

What we’re trying to do is shout from the rooftop that: streetwear isn't just about graffiti and what you see on the block—it's fashion! It's not what Lakme showcases; it's something Lakme can't touch because it's on another level. It's India's style, often overlooked. So, while we do pay homage to street culture, our mission is bigger: to redefine fashion in our space, in our culture. 

Virgil Abloh mentioned streetwear was dead in 2019. What do you think of that? 

Honestly, when Virgil mentioned streetwear dying, I could see where he was coming from. Off-White exploded early on and gained global recognition. But ironically, India's streetwear scene took off in 2019. That was the birth year for many of today's leading brands. You've probably heard of Almost God and 656, both kicking off in 2018. India's streetwear journey has been unique—it soared in 2019, but now it's facing a bit of pigeonholing. People think it's just about baggy tees and oversized pants, forgetting our country's rich diversity in fashion. 

But here's the exciting part: India's fashion scene is evolving. We're seeing brands emerging that defy the traditional streetwear stereotype. They might label themselves as streetwear, but they're breaking the mould. Sure, there's a saturation of oversized tees and pants, but the real essence of streetwear—the fashion, the experimentation—is alive and thriving. People are realising that streetwear isn't confined to a single mould; it's about pushing boundaries and trying new things. Even mainstream giants like H&M and Zara are shifting towards a more timeless streetwear aesthetic, moving away from the oversized craze. Give it a couple more years, and you'll see them on the same playing field. 

What does that look like aesthetically? 

Let's break it down—progressive means things are moving forward, evolving, looking better. In the realm of fashion, that translates to experimentation. Men's wear is pushing boundaries, with skirts becoming unisex. India's fashion scene isn't just following Western trends; we're blending them with our flair. We're taking Western silhouettes and infusing them with Indian elements, whether it's using traditional fabrics or embroidery. This unique fusion sets India apart on the global stage. 

Brands like Archive City, Karu Research (formerly known as Karu Research), Day and Age, and Harago are leading the charge. They're not just copying what's out there; they're reimagining it with an Indian twist. And it's not just about aesthetics; it's about craftsmanship. Indian artisans are getting their due recognition for their skills. It's about creating our own identity, rather than borrowing from others. 

We're already seeing international brands like Dior and Amiri taking notice of what's happening here. They're collaborating with Indian artisans to create something truly unique. And trust me, the Western fashion scene is watching closely. But before they swoop in, we've got to keep pushing forward, ensuring we stay true to our roots while making our mark on the world stage. 

Currently, though, do you think the Streetwear scene in India is too saturated with the same baggy t-shirts and relaxed cargo aesthetics? 

Absolutely, there's been a flood of new brands lately—300 in just the past year! I used to boast about our list of 600 under-the-radar brands, but now that seems like just the tip of the iceberg. The issue? Many of these brands are stuck in a rut, churning out the same old stuff—puff print tees, graphics, you name it. It's oversaturated. 

That's why this year, we're shaking things up. We've cut back on the typical AYCS lineup, focusing more on quality over quantity. Out of our 55 brands, only a handful are in the t-shirt game. Sure, people want the familiar comfort of what they know, but we're also pushing for something different. 

Finding those trailblazers isn't easy. In India, starting a clothing brand isn't always about revolutionising fashion; it's often about making a quick buck. With so many of these "money maker" brands flooding the scene, it's hard for the true innovators to stand out. But hey, that's where we come in. We live and breathe streetwear, so we know what's up. 

Sure, it's a challenge, but it's not insurmountable. We're always on the lookout for brands that dare to be different, that want to shake things up, rather than just cash in. It's all part of the game, you know? Fashion evolves, trends come and go, but we're here to keep the conversation alive. 

With the dip in the sneaker culture, how do you see that space evolving in India now? 

It's a beautiful moment for homegrown brands to step into the spotlight. Brands like Comet, Gully Labs, and Thaeley are making waves in the sneaker scene. Thaeley, in particular, has made a massive impact, even collaborating with Apple directly. Sure, the market might seem saturated, but sneakers? They're not going anywhere. 

Think about it—Michael Jordan's first game was back in '85, and nearly 40 years later, his kicks are still flying off the shelves. Sneaker culture has its ebbs and flows, but it's a resilient beast. It's booming in India. Yeah, maybe it felt like it slowed down for a bit, but that's just a blip. With more access to kicks than ever before, demand is sky-high. People want those kicks, and they're not backing down. So yeah, it might seem like things cooled off a bit, but mark my words—sneaker culture is here to stay. It's just catching its breath before it comes back stronger than ever. 

Any emerging brands or designers you are keeping an eye out for? 

Absolutely, let's dive into the roster. First up, Stamp Duty, led by the incredibly talented Jay, who's just 22 and already shaking up the game. Then there's Garuda, based in Chandigarh, with a vibe that's just indescribable—you've gotta see it to believe it. 

Now, onto the heavy hitters. Day and Age is revolutionising the game with their vintage fabric jackets, reducing waste while looking fly as hell. The Aesthetic Of Résistance is pushing boundaries with their experimental streetwear, while Warping Theory is delivering everyday casual streetwear that's straight fire. Seriously, their pants are legendary. 

Last but not least, Beyond Extremes. They're bringing something special to the table, especially with their slept-on t-shirts. People need to wake up and recognise the value they're bringing to the scene.