There’s a new wave of Indian designers taking the international high street by storm. Gone are the days when Indian aesthetics were rooted in stereotypes. Names like Gaurav Gupta, Dhruv Kapoor, and Kanika Goyal are pushing the envelope in terms of global representation while staying true to their roots. We sat down with these trailblazers to get a behind-the-scenes peek at what makes them tick.
Gaurav Gupta
It feels like a disservice to call Gaurav Gupta just a fashion designer. The veteran of the industry is among the few, if not the only one, who has constantly pushed the envelope in blending art and fashion together, as evidenced in his couture collections over the past few years. There’s perhaps an eerie similarity between the works of Gaurav Gupta and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, both focused on experimenting with architectural shapes in their work, which often resemble art pieces rather than conventional clothing.
Perhaps this makes Gupta one of India’s biggest names in the international high-fashion circuit, having worked with celebrities like Beyoncé, Cardi B, and Priyanka Chopra, among others. Gupta’s creations stand out for their sculptural elegance and intricate detailing, often featuring dramatic silhouettes and luxurious fabrics.
Shunya Debut Collection
How do you blend traditional Indian craftsmanship with modern and avant-garde designs?
GG: It’s at the heart of what we do. We incorporate age-old techniques like Aari embroidery, Zari Zardosi, and intricate draping with contemporary silhouettes and futuristic elements. This fusion results in pieces that honor our rich heritage while resonating with the modern, global audience.
What do you think has been the key factor in gaining international recognition for your work?
GG: It’s our unwavering commitment to authenticity and innovation. By staying true to our roots while continuously pushing creative boundaries, we’ve carved out a niche on the global stage. Dressing iconic celebrities like Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Beyoncé, Alia Bhatt, Cardi B, and others, and showcasing our collection at Paris Couture Week has significantly amplified our visibility and established our brand in the global space.
Can you share any memorable experiences from working with international celebrities?
GG: Some of the most memorable experiences have been while dressing Beyoncé, who has worn our designs multiple times by now. Most recently, we had the pleasure of dressing her for New York Fashion Week, where she wore our Galaxy Crystal jacket, bodysuit and boots. Beyoncé’s brief was clear, she wanted something that celebrated her bold personality while staying true to our design philosophy. Hearing her say that she felt empowered in our creation is exactly what we hope for every woman who wears our designs.
How do you think your designs help change global perceptions of Indian fashion?
GG: While working on a collection, we aim for our designs to be seen as a blend of surrealism and futuristic elements, highlighting the richness of Indian heritage craftsmanship. By merging tradition with modernity, we present Indian couture as dynamic and forward-thinking. Our goal is to push creative boundaries and showcase our collections on international platforms, thereby fostering a more nuanced and contemporary understanding of Indian couture.
What is your design philosophy, and what makes your creations unique?
Gaurav Gupta: Our design philosophy revolves around blending the traditional with the avant-garde, pushing the boundaries of couture while staying deeply rooted in Indian heritage. What sets our creations apart is the intricate craftsmanship, futuristic techniques, and the story each piece tells. Our designs aren’t just garments; they are expressions of art that evoke emotion and celebrate the essence of transformation and inner awakening.
Kim Kardashian in custom Gaurav Gupta
Can you describe your experience at Paris Couture Week and its impact on your career and brand?
GG: It’s hard to put all the emotions of putting on a show in Paris into words, and I know no description will fully justify the experience. However, being part of PCW has been transformative for both my career and our brand. It offers us a prestigious platform to showcase our designs to a discerning global audience. The recognition and support we have received is incredibly heartwarming and have opened doors for us to collaborate with international brands and dress celebrities like Kim Kardashian, Nicki Minaj, Mindy Kaling, Shakira, and Cardi B, among others.
Where do you see Indian fashion heading in the next decade, and what role do you envision for yourself?
GG: In the next decade, I see Indian fashion continuing to rise on the global stage, with a stronger fusion of traditional craftsmanship and innovation. We also envision to expand our physical presence internationally, bringing our designs to new markets while remaining committed to pushing creative boundaries and shaping the global narrative of Indian fashion.
What advice would you give to young designers who aspire to make their mark in the industry?
GG: To young designers, I would say, stay true to your vision and be fearless in your creativity. Embrace your cultural heritage and let it inspire your designs, but don’t be afraid to innovate and push boundaries. Consistency, hard work, and an unwavering commitment to your craft are essential. And of course, surround yourself with a supportive team and always strive for excellence in everything you do.
Dhruv Kapoor
After launching his eponymous label in 2013, Dhruv Kapoor has come full circle in recent years. Having studied at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan years ago, he is now showcasing his collection at Milan Fashion Week. Unlike most of his peers, Kapoor has focused on creating statement-making ready-to-wear pieces that stand out in a sea of designer-clad celebrities. His emphasis is not necessarily on embroidery and traditional crafts but on the silhouette itself. Kapoor’s designs have earned him a reputation for pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion, establishing him as a trailblazer in India’s fashion industry.
What core philosophies guide your design process?
Dhruv Kapoor: No boundaries, no borders and combining global ideologies to birth a new direction through multiple mediums. Playing with polar concepts to explore that line of unison between the two is the most exciting part of our design process. Over time, we have much more clarity on how to execute our thoughts on paper and further into wearable ensembles. The undercurrent has remained the same ever since the inception of the brand—our process, knowledge and application of diverse techniques have evolved through trial and error, learnings and research.
Your brand is known for its bold and unconventional designs. What inspires you to stay true to your vision amidst changing fashion trends?
DK: Staying true to my instincts. After all these years it has become much easier to navigate within this complex system and honestly, it is as simple as following your inner voice. Everything- every possible combination, style or technique already exists—it is all about using a combination of ideas and presenting them through the brands’ lens. Trends for me work as guidance but I am personally never over-ruled by what trends are prevailing. It always must be true to me, true to who I am and what the brand stands for.
How do you see the global perception of Indian fashion changing, and what role do you play in this transformation?
DK: It is evolving at a rapid pace. More than transformation, the world is becoming more aware of the craft, quality and immense production capacity that India is capable of. As a part of the brand's aesthetic, we aim to explore age-old techniques and traditional concepts in a contemporary format. I enjoy working with our artisans to develop new formats through textile and hand embroideries that would speak to global markets and ensure high quality that sits next to global standards.
How do you integrate new technologies and materials into your work while maintaining the essence of your brand?
DK: “Why not” is our favourite statement at the office. All of us at Kapoor enjoy exploring new materials, odd color combinations and altering the design process along the way. It is after multiple trials and rejections that something makes its way into the collection. The essence of the brand is like a filter- anything and everything can be achieved by looking at our surroundings through that lens. It is all about trying- it may work and may not work, but it always brings something extraordinary to the table.
Can you discuss some of your most memorable collaborations and how they have influenced your design perspective?
DK: I have learnt something from each one of them. We enjoy partnering with worlds that are diverse from where we stand. It is always exciting to find that common ground and build something. My team and I thoroughly enjoyed the Nike project—built using Nike deadstock and regenerated through a mix of textiles and handcrafted embroideries in desirable silhouettes.
What steps does your brand take to address the growing demand for sustainability in fashion?
DK: In all honesty a flourishing fashion business can never truly be sustainable, but we address this by upcycling leftover materials into unique pieces bi-annually. We’re also installing solar panels to run part of our infrastructure on renewable energy. We use surplus textiles from major manufacturers, adding new life to them through creative design and versatile styling, such as detachable elements for day-to-night wear.
What new areas are you exploring in your upcoming collections, and how do you see your brand evolving in the next five years?
DK: We're expanding into apparel, accessories, and lifestyle products, with new verticals for lifestyle goods and unique artist collaborations. In the next five years, we plan to introduce accessible and made-to-measure lines, expand our team, and develop physical retail spaces to enhance the brand experience.
Kanika Goyal
Upcoming designers often struggle with expressing their vision from the get-go, but not Kanika Goyal. With a background in fashion design from the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) in India, Goyal's work stands out for its use of textures, intricate detailing, and bold colour palettes. Now showcasing her collection at New York Fashion Week, Goyal’s work plays with the idea of androgynous looks, with an emphasis on bolder fabrics, patchworks, and essentially elevating basics into something more contemporary, gender-fluid, and in many ways trailblazing.
You’ve mentioned your label plays with paradoxes. What does that mean for your designs?
Kanika Goyal: At KGL (Kanika Goyal Label), we mix high-quality craftsmanship with playful, modern touches. We blend structured shapes with flowing elements and contrast different fabrics and colours to create a unique balance. Our designs reflect today’s cultural vibe with vibrant, engaging visuals.
Having worked with Prada and Adidas, how does the Indian fashion industry differ from global trends?
KG: Indian fashion is deeply traditional and often maximalist, with lots of embellishments. Globally, there’s more focus on innovation, minimalism, and simplicity. However, the lines are blurring as both traditions and modern trends blend, with a growing emphasis on sustainability.
Your designs are bold and unconventional. What keeps you true to your vision despite changing trends?
KG: At the heart of it, we are committed to unique creations that reflect the cultural zeitgeist and have a purpose. While our vivid colours and playful humour make our wearers happy, they are central to our drive of promoting Indian craftsmanship in contemporary ways. In 2022, for instance, we launched a capsule collection of gender-fluid, comfort clothing, ‘Pneuma’ that integrated Augmented Reality. By scanning the QR code on the pieces and using the filters, customers could play with them in a virtual landscape, not just in real time.
My personal journey of growing up in Chandigarh—the centre of Brutalist and Bauhaus architecture in India—and international design exposure have profoundly influenced me to cultivate a design language that resonates at home and globally.
How do you see the global perception of Indian fashion changing, and what role would you like to play in this transformation?
KG: Indian fashion’s perception as an imitation of western fashion or the perception that Indian fashion is just about colorful clothes and traditional beading/embroideries, is slowly changing now. While India's handwoven textiles are internationally recognised as artisanal, our hand-embroidery traditions have largely remained confined to couture and bridal wear. As a developing country, we are highly committed to supporting local craftsmen, generating livelihoods and contributing to a unique global design language globally. Through KGL, we want to challenge these norms, blending traditional techniques with modern aesthetics to create an innovative design language.
What memorable collaborations have influenced your design perspective?
KG: Collaborating with Skechers on their first streetwear collection for India was a highlight. It taught me the value of blending cultural context with global trends and inspired me to keep innovating.
How is your brand addressing the demand for sustainability in fashion?
KG: At KGL, sustainability is at the core of our brand ethos. We embrace circularity by using materials that are less resource-dependent and that have longer life cycles. Implementing a circular mindset in every step of our production cycle, we guide our customers to responsibly care for their garments, wear them in multiple ways, and eventually loop them back into their re-wear cycle. For example, we offer a lifetime repair service for our faux leather-surfaced articles and include fun garment tags with information on special dyeing or printing techniques and upcycling methods. This helps improve the longevity of our clothing and allows them to be passed down through generations.
Repurposing and upcycling are integral to our brand practices. We integrate fabric and leather off-cuts from previous collections and deadstock fabrics from mills into our designs. Our surface embellishments often use discarded materials, and we passionately weave older fabric into newer materials for reuse. Additionally, we treat our denim pieces in effluent treatment plants to reduce water wastage and are gradually transitioning to eco-friendly chemicals.
What new directions are you exploring for your upcoming collections?
KG: We’re focusing on upcycling, expanding collaborations, and adding new lines like home décor and couture. We plan to strengthen our global presence and support traditional craftsmanship.
