In the heart of Mumbai’s diverse culinary landscape, Eight has emerged as a notable venue for fine dining experiences. It recently hosted a special tasting menu by Chef Yuki Sugaya, a culinary expert renowned for his innovative approach to WA-Chuka cuisine—a unique Japanese interpretation of Chinese cooking. TIn collaboration with Kikkoman, Eight, known for its elegant yet modern ambiance, provided a fitting backdrop for Sugaya’s carefully curated menu, where each dish reflected a thoughtful blend of cultural influences and technical precision.

Chef Sugaya's journey in the world of haute cuisine is nothing short of extraordinary. Born in Japan and trained under the legendary Master Chef Kenichi Chin, Sugaya’s expertise in Chinese cuisine spans over two decades. His career has been defined by a relentless pursuit of perfection, from helping earn two Michelin stars for Shisen Hanten in Singapore to opening his own celebrated restaurant, "1022," in Japan. Sugaya's dedication to his craft and his unique ability to blend the intricate flavors of Chinese cuisine with the subtle elegance of Japanese culinary techniques have distinguished him as a true innovator in the culinary world. 

As Chef Sugaya continues to push the boundaries of WA-Chuka, his recent venture in Mumbai marks a new chapter in his culinary journey. We had the privilege of sitting down with Chef Sugaya to discuss his culinary philosophy, the challenges of blending Japanese and Chinese cuisines, and his thoughts on the future of WA-Chuka. Excerpts:

Can you share the inspiration behind your pioneering approach to WA-Chuka cuisine and how your experiences working under Master Chef Kenichi Chin influenced your culinary philosophy?

My culinary journey has primarily been about mastering the art of Chinese cuisine, which has a rich history spanning over 4000 years. Working under one of the top Iron Chefs has been an incredible experience, and I am forever grateful for the opportunity to have worked with both him and Kentaro-san. WA-Chuka is still relatively unknown outside of Japan, and I feel honored to introduce this cuisine to many Indians and people around the world. My inspiration comes from using the best ingredients, such as Kikkoman soy sauce, paired with the finest cooking techniques. This combination requires time, experience, and a deep respect and love for the cuisine.

What challenges did you face while blending Japanese and Chinese culinary techniques, and how do you maintain a balance between the two distinct cuisines in your dishes?

Essentially, my cuisine is a variant of Chinese food, much like how Indian Chinese differs from authentic Chinese cuisine here in India. WA-Chuka is a Japanese style of Chinese cuisine, so it's important to clarify that it is a type of Chinese food, not Japanese. The challenge lies in maintaining the authenticity of Chinese cuisine while incorporating Japanese influences, striking a perfect balance between the two.

As the inaugural Executive Chef of Shisen Hanten in Singapore, what strategies did you employ to achieve and maintain the restaurant's two Michelin stars for four consecutive years?

Achieving and maintaining Michelin stars requires consistent excellence in every aspect of the restaurant, day in and day out. It starts with mastering the basics, regularly innovating, understanding customer needs, and fostering strong relationships within the service and cooking teams. Using the best ingredients is also crucial. It’s a continuous effort to stay at the top level.

You’ve recently returned to Japan and opened your own restaurant, "1022." How has your journey across Japan and deeper understanding of its culture influenced the evolution of your WA-Chuka cuisine?

My journey across Japan has been a continuous learning experience. Traveling throughout Japan was fantastic and has deepened my appreciation for my culinary roots. In the future, I might explore other cuisines like French food, perhaps even a stint at Cordon Bleu. Understanding and appreciating one's roots is essential for a deeper connection to one’s core culinary philosophy.

For this special dining event at Eight in Mumbai, you’ve curated a five-course menu. Could you walk us through your thought process in selecting and designing each dish, particularly the fusion elements that highlight WA-Chuka?

The ingredients for this event were sourced by Ooi Yamamoto, a 400-year-old wholesale business in Japanese seafood and ingredients. Many of the dishes are classic WA-Chuka dishes, but I’ve infused them with my own Sugaya-style, adding my unique interpretation and cooking techniques to elevate each dish. The dishes came together beautifully, and I was thrilled to receive so many positive comments like, "I’ve never tasted something as delicious as this!"

With the increasing popularity of Japanese cuisine globally, where do you see the future of WA-Chuka, and what innovations or trends do you anticipate in this unique culinary genre?

It’s still early to predict the future of WA-Chuka. I’ve heard that Indian Chinese is gaining popularity in places like New York and London, which is fascinating. However, unlike Indian cuisine, WA-Chuka relies heavily on a wide variety of fresh seafood and meats sourced from Japan and around the world. For WA-Chuka to grow globally, the availability of the best and right ingredients will be crucial. It will be interesting to see how it evolves in India and beyond.

What excites you most about bringing your culinary creations to the Indian fine dining scene? How do you see this experience influencing your future work?

I love Indian food. My first trip to India was a revelation, with so many delicious and diverse dishes. Visiting Spice King at Crawford Market was a highlight, as I discovered an incredible array of spices, many of which I’ve since sourced for my own cooking. I believe my cuisine will be enriched by this experience with Indian fine cuisine. India has certainly left a lasting impression on me, and I’m excited to see how it will influence my future work. When Harry Hakuei Kosato, the Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador, invited me here, I never expected to discover so many interesting dishes and spices and to meet so many people who loved my food. I love India and I’m looking forward to coming back soon!

Image Credits: Eight, Yuki Sugaya