From the counterculture phenomenon closely associated with the emancipatory politics of the hip-hop movement to a bludgeoning, multi-billion-dollar market, streetwear has come a long way. In the subcontinent, the history of streetwear in the subcontinent is still nascent, although great strides have been made in the last few years, especially after the COVID-19 break. The sartorial landscape, long dominated by formal workwear and ethnic garments, saw a significant shift, fuelled by a new wave of urbanwear culture that emphasised authenticity. Some of the homegrown labels that have made a splash in this scene like Bluorng, Superkicks, Jay Walking, and Prxkhxr are showing no signs of stagnancy, holding sway over young consumers through their unique approach to fashion that is as global as it can be but still rooted in the Indian culture. The Telugu Superstar Allu Arjun too felt the need to revamp his clothing label Rowdy—initially a casual wear launched in 2018—to RWDY to cash in on the rising streetwear market. “It has become apparent that there is a significant increase in the number of brands entering the market, with new brands emerging frequently,” says Prakhar Chauhan, the founder of Prxkhxr, one of the biggest streetwear brands in the country. 

The subculture traces back to the ’80s when the hip-hop and skateboarding culture was in ascendancy. Two of the brands that pioneered this trend, Supreme, and A Bathing Ape, are now a mainstream presence, always redefining the ethos of the trend. “Streetwear, for me, embodies an effortless everyday style that doesn’t require much thought to put together,” says Chauhan. It’s about simplicity and individuality, not following mainstream trends found in chain stores like Zara. Saurabh Maurya, the co-founder of Margn, an artisan fashion collective, concedes he doesn’t really identify the ongoing trends associated with Gen X. “To me, streetwear is about wearing something that reflects your individuality and originality, rather than following mainstream styles,” says Maurya, who started the label in 2019, along with Ranjit Yadav. 

When Chauhan started this brand in 2020, fresh out of college where he studied textile design, there were not too many key players in the market. The concept of streetwear was still a few years away from becoming mainstream. Things, says Chauhan, have changed now, with a whole host of brands catering to a diverse set of consumers. “But this increase in brands has also led to a saturation of the market, with many brands targeting the same audience and offering similar products or services. This phenomenon can be seen as neither inherently positive nor negative,” adds Chauhan. 

The oversaturation of urbanwear brands, however, has created a problem of plenty for consumers. For someone conscious about buying from brands that embody the spirit of streetwear, rather than just capitalising on the trend to make a quick buck, it’s hard to zero down and recognise the difference. “Good Indian streetwear brands stand out by offering unique designs that prioritise wearability over conforming to popular fashion norms,” says Chauhan, whose label Prxhkxr became the first Indian brand to collaborate with the Hundreds, a prestigious community-based streetwear brand. “In the competitive landscape, there are standout players alongside lesser-known brands vying for attention in the industry,” he adds. Maurya too echoes his words, stressing the need to be true to authenticity and uniqueness. 

The beginning of the streetwear culture saw brands imitating the silhouettes and prints already popular in the West, and while they still have their say, there's no dearth of labels from young designers who are proving it's possible to succeed while staying true to the Indian roots. “And it's the latter set of brands that appeals more to younger audiences,” affirms Kunal Kumar Singh, a rapper from Jamshedpur who's well attuned with this subculture. “I have become more conscious of the clothes I am putting on myself. I like to buy from labels who often come up with stuff that I find relatable, rather than something that is an imitation of what's trending elsewhere,” says Kunal, adding how baggy jeans with Indian embroidery he hauled from a local streetwear shop is something he’s been wearing almost every day. It's not just design where the indigenous attention comes to the fore, but also in the textile. Most brands adopt a sustainable approach to their craft, playing with handspun and handwoven cotton, and some like Prxkhxr get their materials directly from Khadi Bhavan. 

What sets a good streetwear label apart from others? Chauhan believes it's the attention to detail, the quality of raw materials, great visuals. “Many brands overlook the importance of creating visually appealing campaigns, which is very essential in this competitive industry,” he opines. Kunal, whose wardrobe includes clothes from Bluorng, Margn, and countless other urbanwear brands, also tells the importance of getting the visuals right. “Instagram is where I come across all these brands, so their visual elements pretty much tell me a lot about the brand,” says Kunal.