As Bengaluru's perennially overcast sky gives way to light showers, the retractable roof at the Reservoir is set into motion, slowly enclosing the open courtyard to shield the droplets from dampening your spirits, literally. The mood is gloomy, yet intimate. The setting is artistic and cosy with just the right amount of rustic charm emanating from the polished pine wood panelling, reminiscent of the bars from the Victorian era. “We have had a lot of influences from London and other European cities,” affirms Prathik Shetty, one of the co-founders of this establishment. Nestled in a rather serene stretch of hustling Indiranagar, the Reservoir embodies the evolving trend in the F&B landscape, where a large set of informed clientele now seeks intimacy and warmth in their dining and drinking experiences. Samarth Shetty, another co-founder of the Reservoir, tells how he wanted the cocktail bar to resemble a museum rather than a typical bar. “We wanted to build a place where people come for drinks but stay to admire the art and verdant nature that surrounds them here,” he quips. 

The concept of grandiose and glamour concomitant to the drinking scene in the country still holds its allure, but a gradual proliferation of intimate, experiential places is now gaining traction in cities like Mumbai and Bengaluru. Having delectable offerings remains paramount, but there's more that more-informed new-age patrons are seeking. They seek authenticity, a sense of quietness, an inviting atmosphere and a memorable experience. “With the growing economy providing disposable income for leisure activities, many in the city are looking for expertly curated experiences and high-quality products,” asserts Sahil Essani, the prominent mixologist who is currently associated with Muro India, a social club known for Cantonese foods and crafted cocktails. From extravagant venues blaring loud music and oozing opulence to quiet and intimate spaces where thoughtfulness permeates everything, from the culinary delights to the choice of glassware or the music they play—the transition is a classic Hegelian shift from thesis to antithesis. 

Avinash Kapoli, the one-half of SOKA, a 38-seater cocktail bar that is making a buzz in Bengaluru, says that the shift away from traditional clubs towards a more relaxed setting reflects a desire for a different kind of social experience post-pandemic. “After the impact of COVID-19, there is a growing appetite for open-air venues rather than enclosed spaces. Following our experiences travelling abroad, we identified a gap in the market for intimate spaces where patrons can enjoy quality conversations over drinks,” says Kapoli, who started this venture with the chef Sombhir Choudhary. On a great night, they cater to not more than 100 to 120 patrons, by design. 

Glide through the gate, and you'll be greeted by a gigantic cocoon hanging from the ceiling. Once you manage to divert your gaze from this centrepiece, you'll find an earthy wall infused with diyas. “This cocoon, hanging prominently in the centre, symbolises the collaboration between Sombir and Avinash and the evolution of their vision for the space,” says Kapoli, who's also the brain behind Jamming Goat, a quintessential Goan bar that has made an indelible mark in the F&B scene. At SOKA, the rich tapestry of Bangalore's heritage is delicately woven into every drink and food they serve. A nod to the Bangalorean roots of Kapoli and Choudhary. Among their signature cocktails are Mofo Don, a playful tribute to the charismatic local vendor who thinks of himself as a don, and 'Made in Heaven', a rum-based drink paying homage to the cricketers from Bengaluru, Rahul Dravid and Anil Kumble. “Many of our drinks are crafted with ingredients sourced from Bangalore and its surrounding areas, adding a local touch to our offerings,” says Kapoli. “The emphasis on storytelling in our space caters to consumers seeking an immersive experience rather than just a drink. The unique atmosphere and ambience of our establishment are designed to provide a connection to the city and the space itself,” he adds. 

Fine dining has always been synonymous with boredom and formality, an atomised spectacle where you silently settle onto your table and talk in a hushed tone to maintain the decorum and harmony of the place. This is what compelled Hussain Shahzad, the award-winning executive chef from Mumbai, to come up with Papa's, “a loud but intimate” 12-seater diner in the heart of Mumbai. “We realised that fine dining is often seen as boring and stiff. We wanted to keep the quality of the food and experience but without the formal atmosphere,” says Shahzad. After closely overseeing the flamboyant success of outlets like The Bombay Canteen, O'Pedro, and Veronica's, Shahzad wanted to create a space that “captured the feeling of dining in the chef's personal space, creating an intimate and welcoming vibe”. “Our goal was to create a space that feels like being welcomed into someone's home in Bandra,” he says, adding that he wanted Papa's to be the space that offers fine dining without the usual stiffness and intimidation. “We wanted to replace formality with comfort, creating an environment where guests can truly relax and enjoy their meals,” adds Shahzad. 

Maintaining the cushy ambience without sacrificing liveliness is a challenge, but these places are conquering it uniquely. While the Reservoir has a dedicated floor where music is somewhat loud and space between tables just enough for you to shake your body, SOKA frequently organises bar takeovers by some of the best in the business. Papa's, meanwhile, relies on the proximity between their staff and patrons by having an open kitchen, and every culinary process can be witnessed up close. The chef and bartenders are always there to satiate your curiosity, besides hunger of course. They won't mind fun banter too. “We want it to feel like a dinner party at a friend's house — warm, welcoming, yet fun and lively,” says Shahzad. “We aim to make every guest feel like they're at a friend's home, with personalized service that makes each visit special. This approach helps us balance the close-knit feel of the space with the excitement and energy of a busy dining scene,” he adds. 

What unites these places is the great effort and emphasis they put into curating their cocktail menus. Creating cocktails has long been overlooked, as bars considered it secondary to their culinary selection. But now things are changing, says Kapoli, adding that bartending is being recognised as an art form. "Just as chefs display their mastery in crafting food and presenting them on the table, bartenders too require a great skill and artistry to make a cocktail hit," he says. Essani, who was adjudged as the bartender of the year at Diageo Reserve World Class India in 2022, always lights up when he's asked about the signature cocktail menu, he curated for the Muro. “It's the labour of love,” he says. One of the creations he's most proud of is Bee's Knees, the classic prohibition-era cocktail featuring gin, lemon juice, and honey, but with a subtle twist. “A great deal of care and consideration goes into our cocktails, and it's always a fun experience to see people enjoying it,” says Essani, adding that cocktails, cuisine, culture, and conversation are four pillars of Muro, and there's no compromise at any of these aspects. 

Shahzad, the executive chef at Hunger Inc, too asserts that “the focus is shifting towards a more balanced experience where both food and cocktails play equal roles.” At Papa's, he joined hands with Pankaj Balachandran and his team at Countertop India to approach cocktails. The main focus, says Shahzad, was on creating drinks that enhance the cosiness of the space, and go well with the food. “Additionally, cocktail-centered bars are gaining traction, reflecting a growing trend where cocktails are not just an afterthought but are given significant emphasis and importance,” he says.